Originally known as  Fortezza di San Giovanni Battista, the Fortezza di Basso in Florence, Italy, was constructed in the 1500s. Literally, ‘The Fortress Base’, the Fortezza was designed to provide a governmental refuge in the case of any strife in the city, hence its large and imposing size aimed to impress upon the city and those beyond its walls. Either its design worked, or was simply not needed, as there was never any requirement to utilise the Fortezza for its intended military purpose.

Having therefore served little purpose for some time, recent use of the structure has resulted in new buildings to be erected within its walls. In the late 1970s and again in the 1990s, new and ultra-modern additions were added to the interior of the Fortress. In a city of ancient and magnificent buildings, their design is noted in part simply for the city’s absence of other modern architecture. Nowadays, the Fortezza consists of 9 pavilion-like structures, and spans a space of 100,000 square metres.

The aim, and in fact the end result of this work on the Fortezza, is that the area now operates as an exhibition and festival space that attracts thousands of young Florentines each year to its hosted events.  

One of the most lively, held from 11 June until 3 August, is the summer ‘INFORTEZZA’ festival. The Fortezza’s large outdoor areas fill with spectators where exhibitions are held, theatrical displays are performed, locals bars set-up outdoor services, bands play live music that attracts hundreds of people swaying to the rhythm and beat of the music, wine in hand.

Arriving with a group of friends, all of you dressed in light, flowing summer clothes, the girls in metallic coloured strappy leather sandals and small evening shoulder bags, there is a crowd awaiting at the large opening to the Fortezza. Outside the gates, there is a piazza whose crowds ebb and flow with groups in the process of coming and going.

Entering into the festival, the cobbled lane of the structure leads you, winds you through to the centre of the Fortress.

Along the way you pass pavilions hosting art exhibitions for local artists, and one large space is filled with thousands of books where you can peruse the titles for hours - classics through the modern titles all flayed out on large white tables. Perhaps you will leaf through Dante as the carnival sounds creep in from without.

Returning to the noise, there are carnival stands where one can throw, hit, lift and fish for prizes. Any sweet-tooth can be satisfied by the fairy-floss and sweets stall, and then there are the shoes, bags and clothing stalls for any midnight shopping desires.

Inside one of the pavilions, there are hundreds of international stalls selling incense, African drums, tie-dyed clothing, gifts, artworks, music, everything you could possibly think of in a giant market stall.

If all the shopping makes you thirsty, Florence’s oldest Irish pub, the Fiddler’s Elbow, sets up a stall with tables and chairs around its bar where the pub locals can sit in a subtle-change of scenery from the narrow Santa Maria Novella location of the original.

Other bars serve cocktails, beers and wines to the locals seated together chatting and laughing outdoors as the noise of fun and relaxation fills the air. There is a South-American bar with live music where the audience is spirited by the intoxicating music. Then there are the chic bars where wines are sipped more quietly whilst eyes peer over the glass rims to see who is the best dressed at the bar.

Having been entertained and quenched thirsts, it is time for food!  

Food consists of batter freshly poured onto hotplates to form perfectly round, paper thin crepes that are filled with delicious local cheeses and meats, the cheese melting and dripping down your wrist as you bite into the deliciousness. Perhaps you will be drawn to the enticing aromas emanating from sizzling barbecue plates at the nearby grilled meat stall. With a side of delectable grilled vegetables and crispy french fries (don’t forget the mayonnaise!), under the darkened Tuscan sky, with an Italian jazz band wonderfully messing up the lyrics to your favourite tune, this is happiness at its simple best.

If you’re hungry for something slightly more exotic, although more costly, there is the Portuguese barbecue stand nearby, just past the Indian stall and Kebab shop. And what would an Italian meal be without the offer of pasta and pizza? After midnight, some stands even offer free spaghetti… if you can resist that long!

Energised by your meal, you have several options for after-dinner entertainment. A nearby outdoor disco plays fantastically terrible ’70s songs mixed with more modern popular songs and the occasional hilarious Italian song that everyone seems to know not only the words to, but also the dance moves! This disco offers a free ride on a mechanical bull with every drink purchased.

Some pavilions have discos where the lights are dimmed and the music heightened. Other outdoor stalls offer more relaxing musical options. It is wonderful passing from area to area to hear one band’s tune fade into the next disco’s chorus.

In the summer heat, which does not considerably lower in the evening, nothing is nicer that a midnight gelato with the locals.

When you think of Florence, you think of the Renaissance, it’s art and architecture. You think of beauty and style. Some of the world’s best fashion, worn so well by its beautifully refined locals. But this is not all there is to Florence. There is also the vivacious, vibrant youth of the city, with discos and parties and yes, fashion events. And many of these are held each year at the Fortezza di Basso, where the best of Florence mixes so well together.

Tags: florence, italy, school, tuscany cooking class, wine class

This entry was posted on Wednesday, May 7th, 2008 at 11:02 am and is filed under Artists, Events, Festivals, Markets. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.