Italians have a wonderful tradition of market shopping. Possibly Florence’s most important, and certainly the largest markets, the San Lorenzo market hugs the San Lorenzo Basillica.

Located just a short walk from the central Duomo that the entire historical city centre seems to radiate out from, the markets are so named after the basilica of San Lorenzo that sits at the centre of the market.

The San Lorenzo Piazza fronts the city’s oldest documented basilica, first constructed in the year 393. However, complete reconstruction was undertaken in the 15th century, with the likes of Brunelleschi, Michelangelo, and even Pope Leone X.

The market itself dates back to the 1860s, and wandering through the markets bring a touch of Sunday afternoon feeling, no matter what day it actually is.

Clothing, hats, scarves, leather jackets, bags, shirts, souvenirs, food items, ceramics, shoes, belts, jewellery… if you can’t find it here, it probably is not worth having.

Wandering through the markets on any day of the week, you are surrounded by a wonderfully international mix of tourists and locals alike. You can spot who is who -the tourists in their t-shirts and sandals, the locals ever well-dressed, the gorgeous Italian girls tottering on impossibly thin high heels despite the uneven stone pavement of the ancient streets as they wander from stall to stall, their large sunglasses covering long-lashed brown eyes set on spying a bargain.

It’s a hot summer’s day, and there is nothing nicer than a granita from the drinks stall just on the corner of the church entrance, in front of the imposing statue of Giovanni delle Bande Nere (or, Giovanni de’ Medici), which dates back to 1540 when the statue was erected by his son, Cosimo I de’ Medici.

Starting from the bancarelle (market carts) just near the entrance to the church, there are belt and bag stands, tables with clothing and shoes, some souvenirs, scarves and endless other items that catch your eye in passing, some - even too many - you just have to have.  

The people who work at the San Lorenzo market chat amongst themselves in the few quiet moments that there are during the day. They are happy and carefree, not interested in pressuring anyone into buying, some in fact more interested in just a chat.

Some items you can haggle on, getting a small discount to spend surely at the next stall. Other places are not open to bargaining, owing to the cheap market rates already offered.

Continuing on, you pass more stalls - leather jackets, hats, drinks, ceramics… 

Jewels from the jewellery stalls sparkle in the sun, the sound of people chatting, laughing, fills the air, and you can easily find yourself wandering from stall to stall at a delightedly relaxed pace.

At a hat stand, you can try on several different styles and designs. The woman working there is helpful, enthusiastically saying which hat looks great, and looking away in silence when you look ridiculous.

Wandering on, soon you come to the entrance of the famed San Lorenzo food market. Entering inside, it is cool and your eyes need a moment to adjust from the perfect brightness of the day.

As your eyes adjust, like a polaroid photograph developing before you, you spy stalls of meats, cheeses, alcohol, fruit and vegetables, packets of pasta in more colours and shapes than you knew possible… the senses are overrun, the taste buds tingling in anticipation.

You see a young girl buying fruit from a stall run by an elderly couple. The man winks at her as he adds 2 small bright red plums into her bag. He waves goodbye to her with a wide arching of his arm that pendulums high above his head and around his body.

Having explored every stall on the ground level, you can start on the upstairs floor. The warehouse stairs lead you up to an expansive open space crammed with tables that are totally covered with an amazing array of fruits and vegetables, spices and nuts.

Squeezing through the walkway, your senses are stroked by the fragrances of wild strawberries at one pass, then the tang of fresh lemons at the next. In one corner, the smell of coffee wafts past you as it emanates from a coffee bar.

After tasting and buying everything you can possibly justify doing, you can wander back outside, your pupils this time blinded by the shock of the sunlight that dazzles you and warms your shoulders instantly.

Nearby is a coffee bar whose windows are tantalisingly filled with trays of cookies and pastries, cakes and chocolates. Entering, there are tables and chairs which offer a reprieve from the paved streets and their wonderful chaos.

Seated, it is difficult to decide which of the many sweets you want to sample, but by no means impossible. Ordering three small items allows a variety of tasting. The coffee is almost always good in Italy, here it is exceptional, and it rings true to you here that the simple things in life really are the best.

At nearby tables, Italians have passionate conversations, communicated in a frantic combination of rapid speaking and expressive hand gestures. Every so often, heads are thrown back in laughter.

Having been refreshed by the coffee and the sweets, you will find new pep in your step as you continue exploring the last part of the expansive San Lorenzo markets.

Wandering behind the stalls, there is some shade and the openings to a plethora of stores offering wares often a little more upmarket than the street stalls. Then there are the general stores, there is a bakery and news agency, and turning a corner, an entire shop selling chocolates and teas and all kinds of extravagant delicacies.

By now, your shopping must come to an end for two reasons - the stalls are beginning to close, and your arms cannot carry any more weight. It must, therefore, be time for the other wonderful Italian tradition… the pre-dinner drink, the aperativo.  

Tags: florence, italy, school, tuscany cooking class, wine class

This entry was posted on Tuesday, July 15th, 2008 at 10:44 am and is filed under Florence Villas. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.