| Where the
tombs speak
Find the who’s who of the nostalgic
Renaissance period entombed under magnificent
crypts and tombs. Trace a path through
the innumerable tombstones that speak
volumes with their silence but are eloquent
with intrigue and secrets. Move slowly
through a maze of pathways and incredible
buildings that house the splendour, the
pride and the glorious creations of the
most famous artists and noble families
of an unforgettable era. The Museum of
the Opera di Santa Croce draws the mind
towards the spirituality, the mystery
and the unbelievable talent of the Florentine
period.
Structured with grace at the Piazza Santa
Croce, the museum was constructed by Arnolfi
di Cambio as a Franciscan church of Santa
Croce in 1294. The church acquired vast
sums of money donated by the rich and
noble families so that they could be buried
in this beautiful church. Attracting not
only the rich, the lovely Capella Pazzi
is filLed with tombs of famous learned
men, talented artists and great scientists,
such as, Machiavelli and Fossombroni,
famous in history as the man who figured
prominently in Leopold II’s plan
to reclaiming Maremma. Designed by Vincenzo
Viviani, the tomb of Galileo is another
interesting sculpture, which brings out
the fact that Prince Giangstone de’
Medici gave Galileo an elaborate funeral
in 1737, to establish the fact that the
Prince was freeing himself from the shackles
of the Ecclesiastical Authorities Council
who were responsible for condemning Galileo.
A Mysterious Structure
As an artistic and precious gem, the
museum of the Opera di Santa Croce, is
a lovely artistic and precious gem which
is 138 meters in length and 39 meters
in width. Styled with a long 19-meter
wide nave with a wooden ceiling reminiscent
of the early Christian architecture, the
church has two aisles. The church in itself
is built like a Basilica by Arnolfi di
Cambio, which was started in 1295 and
finished in 1442. Bringing the modified
Gothic form from the Cistercian church
into Italy, the restoration of the west
facade with colored marble was done in
1857-63. The gorgeous Pazzi Chapel exhibits
the work of Filippo Brunelleschi in Santa
Croce bringing out the grand elements
of space and style.
Come and lose yourself in the architectural
wonder of the Opera di Santa Croce. Feast
your eyes on its wonderful paintings and
awe-inspiring sculptures. Find 276 tombs
lying in peaceful serenity amidst underground
corridors and cloisters. Uplift the soul
as you cross the church’s T-shaped,
Egyptian cross structure, which branches
out into three naves measuring 114,45
meters into a chancel and a transept of
chancels which was mainly reserved for
the noble families of Bardi, Peruzzi,
Tosinghi, Pulci, Rinucci and the Alberti
families. Though the original Bell Tower
was struck by lightning, another one was
built to replace the original about the
same time as the entire church was completed
and consecrated by the Pope, Eugene IV.
Where Talent comes to Life
As you enter the church, you will be
drawn towards the frescoes sculpted by
Giotto and his pupils who transformed
the Opera di Santa Croce into a veritable
museum reflecting a Florentine Trecento
painting. See the light glow through the
fabulous stained glass windows of an era
gone by. You will wonder at the thirst
for knowledge and the aesthetic sense
of the Medici family, of Cosimo ‘the
Elder’ de’ Medici and Andrea
de’ Pazzi. Next to the Sacristy,
the Chapel of the Novitiate was built
between 1435-1445 by Michelozzo and the
exterior and the interior decorated by
Andrea della Robbia and Mino da Fiesole,
being commissioned by the Medici family.
Andrea de’ Pazzi donated money towards
the building of the Pazzi Chapel, in the
first cloister, called the Cloister of
the Dead which was designed and executed
by Brunelleschi, who was also the creator
of the second cloister of the Covent or
the Greater Cloister with an exquisite
door by Benedetto da Maiano. This was
not completed in his lifetime and was
finished by Bernardo Rosellino after Brunelleschi’s
death.
The Opera di Santa Croce is an unbelievable
and exotic museum with myriad displays
of talent, color and design. Walk across
its sculpture-studded interior and discover
the Niccolini chapel ensconced in the
left transept and styled by the famous
architect Giovanni Antonio Dosio. The
Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici commissioned
Giorgio Vasari to re-modernize the Basilica
which was finished with immense altars
carved into the walls of the side naves
and enhanced with a profusion of fabulously
rich paintings by the most talented and
sensitive artists of Florence.
As one of the most exquisite show pieces,
the Opera di Santa Croce opens out an
incredible fountainhead of lovely sculptures,
paintings, stained windows, carvings and
a multitude of designs, seemingly vying
with each other for attention. Come and
view the evolved Renaissance sculpture
and be moved by the Crucifix by Donetello
in the Bardi Chapel in the left transept.
Turn around to see the noble Anunciation
with its gilded sculpture glowing with
a cosmic light embedded in gray stone
that was restored later by the Opifico
delle Pietre Dure. Let your soul be exported
with the sculpture of the Madonna of Milk
by Antonio Rosellino, which was placed
above the tomb of Francesco Nori. As an
interesting fact, the story goes that
Francesco Nori, who was the Prior of the
Republic, died while saving the life of
Lorenzo the Magnificent during the Pazzi
conspiracy.
A Memorable Journey
Gape in awe at the magnificent Pulpit
carved with innate talent and the essence
of style by Benedetto da Maiano. Pass
by the memorable monuments, prototypes
of the Renaissance tomb monuments, in
memory of Leonardo Bruni, the great humanist
and Chancellor of the Republic by Bernado
Rossellini and Desiderio da Settignano,
and imagine the veteran of freedom resting
in peace. You can even find the tombs
of Taddeo Gaddi and the Count Ugolino
della Gherardesca. Look around and actually
see the works of the old maestros of art
in splendid array in the Basilica. See
the appealing tomb of Michaelangelo by
Vasari and Galileo’s tomb by Foggini
and Vittorio Alfieri by Canova. Considered
as the city Pantheon, the Basilica is
the final resting place of the greatest
in Florence. The illustrious poet, Ugo
Foscolo has described the Basilica and
its fabulous tombs in his work, ‘Sepolcri’.
Bedazzle your senses
As a fine example of Neoclassical and
Romantic sculpture, the Basilica lets
you explore her cavernous underground
corridor with many tombs found in the
first cloister under the loggia in the
church. Interestingly enough, the cloister
can also be used as the entrance to the
Museum from the Square. Have you heard
of the ‘Stendhal’s disease”?
Almost a hundred years back, the illustrious
Stendhal was totally entranced by the
Church of Santa Croce that he almost went
mad! This is a mysterious disease that
afflicts some of the visitors to the Church
of Santa Croce! About twelve visitors
reel under the symptoms of culture shock
and are bedazzled by the sights around
them.
The most interesting and mysterious stories
surround the Basilica. The façade
of the church is covered with large slabs
of green marble with its chapels inside
are frescoed by the awe-inspiring works
of Giotto and della Robbia. The Church
of Santa Croce was built so that it would
stand totally apart from its rival, the
immense church of Santa Maria Novella
built by the Dominicans in the opposite
side of the city. The walls of the Church
are lined with tombs of the who’s
who in the Florentine society and to your
surprise, if you look hard enough you
would find the tomb of Niccolo Machiavelli,
author of the ‘Prince’ and
the Crucifix by Cimabue that was damaged
badly in the floods of 1966. The remains
of the great composer Gioacchino Rossini
are also interred here. Stroll through
the long hall of the Refectory and on
your right Cimabue’s Crucifix reflects
the fusion of Byzantine heritage and the
evolving style of the Renaissance. Cimabue
even taught Giotto to paint!
Walk through the Church’s wide
interiors and aisles and listen to the
muted whispers of the past echoing across
the huge vaulted stone arches. Towards
the right of the entrance of the museum,
Michaelangelo’s tomb stands majestic
and appealing with the “Pieta’
painted by Michaelangelo himself. Another
interesting fact is that though there
is a cenotaph to Dante Alighieri, his
tomb is in Ravenna and the authorities
have refused to give his bones to the
Florentines! Covered with tombs, the floor
is protected by a hard plastic sheet to
preserve what is left of the inscriptions
on the tombs. Outside, near Santa Croce
you will find Casa Buonarotti, which belonged
to Michaelangelo. Though he never lived
in it, the house stands as a famous museum
and you can feel the presence of Michangelo
and the tempestuous times of years gone
by.
The song of the Angels
Words cannot describe the fantastic art,
architecture and imagination of the talented
Florentines. The Church of Santa Croce
has been built with passion and prayer
and to the right transept and right next
to the main altar, Giotto has frescoed
scenes from the life of Saint John the
Evangelist. The Convent at Santa Croce
has been converted to a museum with the
intention of housing the hapless yet artistic
victims of the deadly flooding of the
Arno in 1966, which had covered the entire
church with loads of mud and water. Landscaped
with the flow of art, the open-air courtyard
is filled with cypresses and resounds
with the trill of birds. Walk slowly down
the path and find the rectangular Cappella
de’ Pazzi by Brunelleschi. As a
signature piece, the chapel is built with
light gray pietra serena reflecting the
Renaissance touch to highlight the artistically
architectural lines that stand out against
clear white plaster walls with the porch
created by Guilano di Maiano. The chapel
itself is designed with glazed terra cotta
by Luca della Robbia. The only relief
is the roundels of the Apostles and by
the time the chapel was finished, the
Pazzi conspiracy either kidnapped, murdered
or exiled the family who were donating
money towards this building.
Come and see one of the wonders of the
world that has entranced millions. Come
and absorb the spirit of the Renaissance
with its tragedies and haunting memories.
Come and listen to the music of cosmic
galaxies and let it mingle with the song
of the birds in the courtyard of the Opera
di Santa Croce.
Let your imagination wander down the
Piazza Santa Croce, 16, and let the Renaissance
come to life at the Opera di Santa Croce.
Let the old masters walk into your life
and light up the dark corners. Listen
to the song of the angels between 9 a.
m. to 12.30 a. m. and 3 p.m. to 6.30.
The museum remains closed on Wednesdays,
so take a break and come back again and
again.
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