As
always, we will begin our visit to Tuscany with
a local recipe to whet your appetite and inspire
dreams of Bella Toscano. For centuries,
the farmers of Tuscany have raised rabbits, and
Tuscan hunters have long sought the succulent wild
hares as prizes for the dinner table. Thus,
Coniglio is a popular dish in Tuscany.
With the advent of supermarkets, rabbit is
easy to purchase and prepare anywhere. We
present a recipe for Rabbit with Herbs.
Coniglio
alla Herbe
Marinate one
3-4 lb. rabbit, cut into pieces, overnight in 1
cup white wine vinegar and enough cold water to
cover. Before cooking, rinse and pat
dry the pieces.
Heat 1/4 to 1/2
cup olive oil and 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy
skillet over medium heat. Place the pieces
in the skillet and sprinkle with a generous amount
of chopped fresh rosemary, sage, and garlic.
Brown the pieces of rabbit well on all sides.
Add a generous cup of white wine, and bring the
pot to a slow boil, scrapping up any brown bits
from the pan. Simmer covered for 1 to 1 1/2
hours, and season with salt and freshly ground pepper,
adding water if necessary.
Near the end
of the cooking time, remove the lid and continue
to simmer until nearly all the liquid is absorbed.
At this point, the meat should be fork tender.
Enjoy!
More Sights
and Cities of the Val D'Orcia
A visit to the
Parco Naturale Val D'Orcia will certainly conjure
up pictures of hunters in search of rabbits,
scouted the rolling country and hillsides for their
prey. The protected park is just one of the
many places to visit in the area.
The Val D'Orcia
includes some beautiful and rugged countryside,
and some spectacular scenery. Near Radicofani,
one can experience two of the legendary sights of
the valley of the Orcia. First, there
is the lofty tower that sits outside Radicofani,
and the ruined fortress that surrounds it.
This fortress was once the headquarters of the bandit,
Ghino di Tacco, featured in Dante's Inferno and
also The Decameron.
Another sight
for the visitor to Val D'Orcia consists of the elegant
loggias that line the highway just beyond the town.
These loggias were once a part of the Palazzo La
Posta, built in the 17th Century, and a favorite
stop of famous travelers on the Grand Tour in days
gone by. Outside the village of Radicofani,
travelers can stop for a delicious and moderately
priced meal at La Palazzina.
La Palazzina
Loc. Le Vigne
0578-55771
In our last two
newsletters, we have mentioned two wines from Montalcino,
the very famous Brunello di Montalcino, and the
dessert wine, Moscadello di Montalcino. Before
we leave the Val D'Orcia behind today, we will pay
a visit to the town.
Montalcino
The small hillside
town of Montalcino, 24 km. west of Pienza,
is the site of an ancient fortezza.
This magnificent fort, built in 1361 served
as the refuge and home of the government of Siena
when, in 1555, the city was captured by the Holy
Roman Emperor, Charles V.
The picturesque
medieval streets of Montalcino are filled with wine
shops, enoteche, cafes and other shops to serve
the visitors that come to seek the wonderful Brunello
and Rosso di Montalcino, as well as the sweet Moscadello
that we described in our last newsletter.
The tourist office in Montalcino can provide visitors
with a list of vineyards that allow visitors, as
well as the times and phone numbers to schedule
visits.
Pro Loco
Tourist Office
Costa Municipio
8
10am-1pm and
2-6pm
Tuesday-Sunday
Visitors come
to Montalcino for the Museo Civico e Diocesano d'Arte
Sacra, as well as to see the Fortezza and taste
the wines. The museum contains a fine small
collection of sacred art from Montalcino and the
surrounding area. Especially notable works
are a Madonna and Child by Simone Martini and a
triptych by Duccio di Buoninsegna.
Abbazia
di Sant'Antimo
The Abbey of
Saint Antimo lies 35km to the southwest of Pienza,
and a visit to Montalcino can easily be combined
with a trip to the Abbazia. The Abbey commands
an isolated hilltop site, where it stands
alone amid cypress and olive groves. Sant'Antimo
was founded in the 9th century, and its church was
added in the 12th century. The small monastic
community still occupies the Abbey and it is possible
to attend Mass, where the monks sing Gregorian chants,
after visiting the remaining and architecturally
outstanding buildings of the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo.
Montepulciano
Montepulciano
was long a site of contention between the rulers
of Florence and Siena, and when the Florentines
finally gained complete supremacy in 1404,
they called upon some of their favorite architects
to enliven Montepulciano, thus giving the Gothic
town a Renaissance flavor. This mixture of styles,
the ancient and the Renaissance, provides visual
delight and architectural interest for today's visitors
to Montepulciano.
Although the
medieval streets of Montepulciano hold surprises
for the visitor in the form of scattered splendid
palazzos, most of the town's main sights are clustered
around the Piazza Grande, the highest point in the
city. On one side of the Piazza is the Palazzo
Comunale, and on the other is the Palazzo Contucci.
These Renaissance Palazzos will be of interest to
lovers of Italian art and architecture.
Not far from
the Piazza Grande are the Museo Civico with della
Robbia terracottas and a few other interesting works,
and the church of Santa Lucia with a lovely Madonna
by Signorelli.
The medieval
streets of Montepulciano are much like those of
Montalcino in that many of shops are devoted to
wine lovers. Wine, art and architecture are
complemented by two August festivals in Montepulciano
that are quite interesting for travelers.
The first and largest is the Bruscello,
a play in song and verse acted out by the townspeople
in Piazza Grande. Also in August is the Bravio
delle Botti, in which local teams race up
the steep main street pushing huge barrels.
Vino Nobile
di Montepulciano
The Nobile di
Montepulciano has been justly famous for centuries.
In his "Bacchus in Tuscany," Francesco
Redi wrote in 1685 that "Montepulciano is the
King of all wines." To this day, the Nobile
di Montepulciano continues to be a favorite of wine
lovers around the world, and is indeed one of the
most prized Italian red wines.
Nobile di Montepulciano
is made from selected Prugnolo (Sangiovese Grosso)
grapes cultivated on hilly ground at an altitude
of 250 to 600 meters above sea level, which are
harvested in October. It has a deep ruby red
color and its bouquet is rounded, complete, and
elegant. The taste is dry, full and smooth.
The Vino Nobile
di Montepulciano is best served at a temperature
of 18° to 20° C, and should be allowed to
breath before being poured into a large red wine
glass with a wide base and tall stem. The
wine is delicious with red meats and is also excellent
with mature cheeses.
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