Dear friends,

We would like to inform you that we have just completed our latest electronic catologue for the 2005 season. This release contains over 300 properties, and also information on our cooking classes which we can also organise .

If you are interested in receiving our free digital catalogue (CD) and see what we have to offer please just send us an email with your complete name, address, tel.number and we will gladly mail a copy to you.

Regards,

Meaghan & Max
tuscanyvillas4u@yahoo.com

Benvenuto!

As promised, in this issue of the Tuscan Life Newsletter, we bring you the first part of our Tuscan Dining Directory. We are going to begin to keep a list of all our readers' favorite restaurants and food shops throughout Tuscany, and I plan to put them in order, alphabetically by the towns or areas that are home to the establishments. I also want to intergrate our own recommendations, and will add several, culled from past newsletters. That way, if you are looking for a restaurant recommendation in say, San Quirico d'Orcia, you can simply click on the latest edition of the Dining Directory in our Past Newsletters archive (www.florencevillas.com) and scroll down to the name of the town.


   

Up until now, our readers have had to access back issues in the Tuscan Life Newsletter archive to find recommendations, and we hope the new system will make finding dining tips much easier. But please, don't hesitate to look for specific newsletters from the past for sightseeing recommendations and a lot more.

Our readers have so far generously contributed their thoughts and experiences, and we would love to see even more from all of you. I hope to update the list at least once more in 2004, so please send your favorite dining recommendations to TuscanLifeEdit@verizon.net

I have attempted to list each reader recommendation in depth, as they were written. Sometimes its just so much nicer to read a full length account of a meal, rather than a simple "So and So in Florence is a must." The recommendations without names are our own, some of which can be found in previous newsletters.

Readers, your contributions here are fantastic, and I thank you from the bottom of my heart. And now, on to the guide!

 
Contents

1. Bagno Vignoni

5. Lecchi

2. Cortona

6. Siena

3. Florence

7. Trequandra

4. Outside Florence

8. Volpaia

The Tuscan Life Dining Directory

Bagno Vignoni

At La Parata, we dined on the pasta specialty of this area, pici, as tables full of local workers happily devoured homemade salumni. I enjoyed the house prepared breasola, the pici, and the wonderful torta di ricotta. My husband chose a roasted rabbit dish that he loved.

The name of the restaurant derives from the Italian verb "parare," meaning, "to cover." It is appropriate because the roof of the current restaurant was, for 200 years, the covering of part of an ancient inn that once stood on this spot. Chef/owner Giancarlo Diodata changes his menu frequently to reflect the seasons, and his personal, inventive take on traditional dishes is delightful. Prices are moderate, and décor is evocative of times gone by. We highly recommend this charming little place. (from the newsletter)

L'Osteria La Parata
Piazza del Moretto 40
(39) 0577 887 508

Cortona

Our most fondest dining experience was this spring in Tuscany at the Borgo di Vaglia resort/ restaurant, Trattoria " I cche c e c e".(pronounced" eekea che che") We have visited Italy at least a dozen times and this is our most memorable experience. There is nothing shabby or pretentious about this place.

We were so relaxed and comfortable, as though were were guest in Dina's lovely country dining room. The oven is from her family home.

Dina ,our cook,, is the daughter of the former owner of the resort land who prepares regional dishes taught from 10 generations past. Dina will come out to speak with you . Wines are paired, for each/meal course. Prices are reasonable. for a 4 course set menu which includes tax and cover charge. American cost is approximately $30.00

The restaurant offers the regions only farmers type cooking , yet gourmet which is prepared by using only seasonal foods. Sample the farmers way of life while sampling original local products such as free range poultry, pasta, home made desserts. and local wines.

There was nothing offered we did not like and received seconds (free of charge) for dishes we raved on about. We asked for a weekly menu and decided to return every night because the dishes sounded so very tempting. We were not disappointed.

The dining room is a restored cold cellar/wine cellar with many original 14th century architecture, including the fireplace, beams and energy door. Most notable is the food, prepared on a open wood burner replica of 14th century cooking, gave flavors we never knew were possible.

I love to cook and found my self wondering if I could attempt to create the dishes myself. I was encouraging Dina to write a cook book with the family recipes .

Menu is price fix with a special for the evening with starters to dessert, with wine being extra. There is nothing not to like about this eating establishment. The dishes with truffles in season are exquisite.

The whole resort is a restored 14th century resort Gold Crown resort which parallels the restaurant. Strolling the grounds with a glass of vino before or after dining is the ultimate in relaxation.

By the way Frances Mayes, the author, raves about the food. She lives nearby. Reservations are a must. Dress is casual.

We really enjoyed this intimate one of a kind experience. The restaurant is located within the resort which is reached by a winding road up into the mountains which also boast wonderful views. Accessible by auto only.

Call 039-0575-61961 ( leave a message in English is the machine answers/ address: I-52040, Mercatale, Cortona, P.Rotchford

Florence

As you have given me this opportunity to give favourite restaurants a mention, I thought I'd tell you about The Lob Fish Ristorante that is located in Via Faenze and is only a 5 minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella Railway Station.

The Lob is a restaurant where lots of locals dine; and usually that's a good sign. It's interior is decorated in nautical style and has a good feel to it. The food is superb and the menu is appealing, I would say, to all tastes. I've been to this ristorante several times over the past 4 years and I usually recommend it to my friends who are visiting Florence. I just love the ambience of the place. One lunch time, on my trip to Florence this year in June, I ordered a dish in the Lob that I wouldn't associate with an Italian Restaurant but it was delicious. It was grilled prawns with an apple and curry sauce and served with noodles, possibly vermicelli. To follow, I had the nicest creme brulee I've ever tasted (both quite un-Italian). It's not a budget type restaurant but it is well worth visiting at least once. Gloria

Il Cinghiale Bianco- The food is exceptional and the staff friendly and helpful. Victor Winograd

Alla Vecchia Bettola: This delightful restaurant was introduced to us by the Florence Villas team, and we couldn't have enjoyed it more. Owned by the people who run Nerbone, the venerable sandwich cafe in the Mercato Centrale (be sure to watch for tour of the Mercato in an upcoming newsletter), Alla Vecchia Bettola is colorful, fun and absolutely delicious. The restaurant is located just across the Viale Ariosto from the southwest corner of Piazza Tasso.

Diners here are seated at long tables, on stools, adding to the conviviality of the bright, warm and welcoming room. Our hosts ordered an amazing meal for us: we began with what must be Firenze's most popular appetizer, Crostini di Fegatini di Pollo (chicken livers on toast), and Vecchia Bettola's Antipasto Toscano, which was an array of absolutely incredible cured meats, velvety and pungent. These delicious appetizers were followed by a primi of Penne all Bettola, penne tossed with a little cream, tomatoes, a dash of hot pepper and punched with vodka!), rich, unctuous and irresistible. And after that, a secondo of Agnello con carciofi; a miraculous dish of lamb, rolled and stuffed with artichokes. And we still had desert! Our dolce was some of the best tiramisu we have ever tasted: moist, creamy, loaded with flavor and yet still light and refreshing after a rich and complex meal. Don't let the casual atmosphere of Alla Vecchia Bettolo fool you: this is Florentine cooking at its finest. (from the newsletter)

Alla Vecchia Bettola
Viale Ariosto, 32/34r
055 224 158

Osteria Santo Spirito, with its colorful walls, upstairs dining nook, imaginative artwork, and hip crowd reminded us of New York's East Village. In fact, it was an East Village resident that recommended this restaurant to us, and as soon as we were seated we knew why she did so: the funky ambiance and art-filled walls must have helped her to feel right at home.

But this place is in Florence, and in many ways it was also quite different from New York. The young, attractive staff were friendly and helpful, the other diners were all Italians, and the food was inexpensive and delicious. We loved this restaurant! Standing out among our memories of our evening in Piazza Santo Spirito is this: three young boys, each about 12 or 13 years old, came to the restaurant, with reservations and without adults. What made these youngsters so memorable to us was the natural ease with which they approached their restaurant visit. We were impressed as we watched them order and navigate their dining experience. To see young people with an appreciation for great food, combined with easy manners and hearty appetites isn't something we experience every day. These young fellows warmed our hearts.

Among our favorite dishes at Osteria Santo Spirito, in addition to the penne recipe at the beginning of our newsletter, were a huge platter of rucola covered with shavings of parmigiano and served with thick, green extra virgin olive oil and sweet aceto balsamico to sprinkle over it all. We also enjoyed a wonderful dish of linguine with the tiniest baby clams, fresh and briny, and more of them than I could count. Dozens and dozens of these delicious tiny creatures, in their shells as small as a child's thumbnail, crowded the plate. I thought I couldn't eat them all, but of course, I did. (from the newsletter)

Osteria Santo Spirito
Piazza Santo Spirito, 16r
055 238 2383

Each time we visit Florence, we make sure to stop at Da Sergio for an incredible lunch. Over the years, this authentic old trattoria, operated by the same family for over 4 decades, has never failed to thrill us. Da Sergio is open Monday through Saturday, and only for lunch (11 am to 2:30 pm). We find that taking time out for a midday meal at Da Sergio serves us well: the brisk service and central location add to the enjoyment of a busy day of sightseeing.

We first wondered in some years ago, while exploring the stalls of the San Lorenzo street market, buying souveniers and bargain hunting. Hidden behind the many vendor stalls that line the via della Ruosina, Da Sergio is easy to miss. We urge you to leave the shopping for a bit, and enter this old marble floored restaurant, with two bright rooms lined with wooden benches and filled with happy diners; you will be glad that you did. Most of the diners at Da Sergio appear to be regulars, some with their own vino and acqua bottles bearing their names. Everyone seems happy, and everyone seems to be eating quite a lot.

On our most recent visit, we had calamari that was deliciously crisp, light and tender, and a wonderful dish of penne in a simple fresh tomato sauce. In the past, we've enjoyed a rich slice of tender, wine flavored, roast veal, and a hearty vegetable minestrone. Meals at Da Sergio are reasonably priced, efficiently served and always eminently eatable, and although the waiters don't appear to speak English, we have always found them willing to do what it takes to communicate with us. We highly recommend a visit to our favorite casual restaurant in Firenze. (from the newsletter)

Da Sergio
Via della Ruosina, 2r
055 218 550

Our friend Elizabeth, of the Florencevillas.com team, suggested Osteria De' Benci to us, and we were very happy that she did. The highlight of our meal was the outstanding filetto di Chianina that we shared. Despite our fear of cholesterol, we found ourselves eating Tuscany's signature beef quite often during our week's stay. This version was a mangeable size for two of us to share, crisp and brown on the outside and meltingly rare on the inside. We ordered a delicious gratin of creamy potatos and vegetables to accompany it. The young waiters bustling about Osteria de' Benci , handsome as well as friendly and helpful, suggest a delicious pasta first course to share along with the filetto. Also at their suggestion, we began with a rich and delicious antipasto of pate and crostini. Their kind and able hospitality greatly enhanced our enjoyment of our meal, and we look forward to returning. Their card tells us that "La Domenica Ci Riposiamo" so make sure to go during the week. (from the newsletter)

Osteria De' Benci
Via de' Benci, 13r
055 2344 923

Outside Florence Lecchi

One of the best eating experiences I have had was with my young children at the Ristorante Omero on the Colle Arcetri near Firenze. The hill on which it is placed is above the Oltrarno (up from the Piazzale Michelangelo). The food was excellent and the setting on a terrace over the valley of the Arno very beautiful. (unsigned, from a reader)

Without a doubt my husband and I, with friends, would applaude Il Poggio in Lecchi. We discovered Il Poggio Restaurant last year while we were visiting Tuscany. Thanks to a suggestion from a wine store owner in Gaiole. Their spaghetti was amazing and I would love the recipe. The veal scallopini melted in your mouth, the blend of flavours just added to an ultimate dining adventure. Barbara Dolding

Siena Trequandra

Il Ghibbellino- In the shadow of the duomo. Great food, good prices, good natured staff, fun to talk with. Victor Winograd

Ristorante Il Conte Matto: Last year we spent a month in Tuscany. Of all the places we ate and stayed, we thought the restaurant in the small village of Trequandra was the very best! We went back again and again. We especially enjoyed their spinach dish and anything with truffles on it!

The Conte Matto was clean, with a lovely view and great wait staff. We felt very lucky to have found such a special place tucked away in the Tuscan hills. You can use my name...or not... Salute! Jacqueline Medill

Volpaia

We had the pleasure too of savouring the fresh daily made pasta of La Bottega in Volpaia several times. What a memorable eating experience!! Barbara Dolding

Once again, many thanks to those who participated, and to anyone who would like to add another recommendation, we gladly await your tips. We will hopefully publish an updated version of the Tuscan Dining Directory at the end of this year, or early in 2005.

You can reach us at the newsletter, with your comments or questions, at Tuscanlifeedit@verizon.net

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visit Bella Toscana, our beautiful corner of Italy.
www.florencevillas.com

 

You can reach us at the newsletter, with your comments or questions, at Tuscanlifeedit@verizon.net
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