We would like to inform you
that we have just completed our latest electronic
catologue for the 2005 season. This release
contains over 300 properties, and also information
on our cooking classes which we can also organise
.
If you are interested in receiving
our free digital catalogue (CD) and see what
we have to offer please just send us an email
with your complete name, address, tel.number
and we will gladly mail a copy to you.
As promised, in this issue
of the Tuscan Life Newsletter, we bring you
the first part of our Tuscan Dining Directory.
We are going to begin to keep a list of all
our readers' favorite restaurants and food
shops throughout Tuscany, and I plan to put
them in order, alphabetically by the towns
or areas that are home to the establishments.
I also want to intergrate our own recommendations,
and will add several, culled from past newsletters.
That way, if you are looking for a restaurant
recommendation in say, San Quirico d'Orcia,
you can simply click on the latest edition
of the Dining Directory in our Past Newsletters
archive (www.florencevillas.com) and scroll
down to the name of the town.
Up
until now, our readers have had to access back
issues in the Tuscan Life Newsletter archive
to find recommendations, and we hope the new
system will make finding dining tips much easier.
But please, don't hesitate to look for specific
newsletters from the past for sightseeing recommendations
and a lot more.
Our readers
have so far generously contributed their thoughts
and experiences, and we would love to see even
more from all of you. I hope to update the list
at least once more in 2004, so please send your
favorite dining recommendations to TuscanLifeEdit@verizon.net
I have attempted
to list each reader recommendation in depth,
as they were written. Sometimes its just so
much nicer to read a full length account of
a meal, rather than a simple "So and So in Florence
is a must." The recommendations without names
are our own, some of which can be found in previous
newsletters.
Readers, your
contributions here are fantastic, and I thank
you from the bottom of my heart. And now, on
to the guide!
At La Parata, we dined on the
pasta specialty of this area, pici, as tables
full of local workers happily devoured homemade
salumni. I enjoyed the house prepared breasola,
the pici, and the wonderful torta di ricotta.
My husband chose a roasted rabbit dish that
he loved.
The name of the restaurant
derives from the Italian verb "parare," meaning,
"to cover." It is appropriate because the roof
of the current restaurant was, for 200 years,
the covering of part of an ancient inn that
once stood on this spot. Chef/owner Giancarlo
Diodata changes his menu frequently to reflect
the seasons, and his personal, inventive take
on traditional dishes is delightful. Prices
are moderate, and décor is evocative of times
gone by. We highly recommend this charming little
place. (from the newsletter)
L'Osteria La Parata
Piazza del Moretto 40
(39) 0577 887 508
Cortona
Our most fondest dining experience
was this spring in Tuscany at the Borgo di Vaglia
resort/ restaurant, Trattoria " I cche c e c
e".(pronounced" eekea che che") We have visited
Italy at least a dozen times and this is our
most memorable experience. There is nothing
shabby or pretentious about this place.
We were so relaxed and comfortable,
as though were were guest in Dina's lovely country
dining room. The oven is from her family home.
Dina ,our cook,, is the daughter
of the former owner of the resort land who prepares
regional dishes taught from 10 generations past.
Dina will come out to speak with you . Wines
are paired, for each/meal course. Prices are
reasonable. for a 4 course set menu which includes
tax and cover charge. American cost is approximately
$30.00
The restaurant offers the regions
only farmers type cooking , yet gourmet which
is prepared by using only seasonal foods. Sample
the farmers way of life while sampling original
local products such as free range poultry, pasta,
home made desserts. and local wines.
There was nothing offered we
did not like and received seconds (free of charge)
for dishes we raved on about. We asked for a
weekly menu and decided to return every night
because the dishes sounded so very tempting.
We were not disappointed.
The dining room is a restored
cold cellar/wine cellar with many original 14th
century architecture, including the fireplace,
beams and energy door. Most notable is the food,
prepared on a open wood burner replica of 14th
century cooking, gave flavors we never knew
were possible.
I love to cook and found my
self wondering if I could attempt to create
the dishes myself. I was encouraging Dina to
write a cook book with the family recipes .
Menu is price fix with a special
for the evening with starters to dessert, with
wine being extra. There is nothing not to like
about this eating establishment. The dishes
with truffles in season are exquisite.
The whole resort is a restored
14th century resort Gold Crown resort which
parallels the restaurant. Strolling the grounds
with a glass of vino before or after dining
is the ultimate in relaxation.
By the way Frances Mayes, the
author, raves about the food. She lives nearby.
Reservations are a must. Dress is casual.
We really enjoyed this intimate
one of a kind experience. The restaurant is
located within the resort which is reached by
a winding road up into the mountains which also
boast wonderful views. Accessible by auto only.
Call 039-0575-61961 ( leave
a message in English is the machine answers/
address: I-52040, Mercatale, Cortona, P.Rotchford
Florence
As
you have given me this opportunity to give favourite
restaurants a mention, I thought I'd tell you
about The Lob Fish Ristorante that is located
in Via Faenze and is only a 5 minute walk from
the Santa Maria Novella Railway Station.
The Lob is a restaurant where
lots of locals dine; and usually that's a good
sign. It's interior is decorated in nautical
style and has a good feel to it. The food is
superb and the menu is appealing, I would say,
to all tastes. I've been to this ristorante
several times over the past 4 years and I usually
recommend it to my friends who are visiting
Florence. I just love the ambience of the place.
One lunch time, on my trip to Florence this
year in June, I ordered a dish in the Lob that
I wouldn't associate with an Italian Restaurant
but it was delicious. It was grilled prawns
with an apple and curry sauce and served with
noodles, possibly vermicelli. To follow, I had
the nicest creme brulee I've ever tasted (both
quite un-Italian). It's not a budget type restaurant
but it is well worth visiting at least once.
Gloria
Il Cinghiale Bianco-
The food is exceptional and the staff friendly
and helpful. Victor Winograd
Alla Vecchia Bettola:
This delightful restaurant was introduced to
us by the Florence Villas team, and we couldn't
have enjoyed it more. Owned by the people who
run Nerbone, the venerable sandwich cafe in
the Mercato Centrale (be sure to watch for tour
of the Mercato in an upcoming newsletter), Alla
Vecchia Bettola is colorful, fun and absolutely
delicious. The restaurant is located just across
the Viale Ariosto from the southwest corner
of Piazza Tasso.
Diners here are seated at long
tables, on stools, adding to the conviviality
of the bright, warm and welcoming room. Our
hosts ordered an amazing meal for us: we began
with what must be Firenze's most popular appetizer,
Crostini di Fegatini di Pollo (chicken livers
on toast), and Vecchia Bettola's Antipasto Toscano,
which was an array of absolutely incredible
cured meats, velvety and pungent. These delicious
appetizers were followed by a primi of Penne
all Bettola, penne tossed with a little cream,
tomatoes, a dash of hot pepper and punched with
vodka!), rich, unctuous and irresistible. And
after that, a secondo of Agnello con carciofi;
a miraculous dish of lamb, rolled and stuffed
with artichokes. And we still had desert! Our
dolce was some of the best tiramisu we have
ever tasted: moist, creamy, loaded with flavor
and yet still light and refreshing after a rich
and complex meal. Don't let the casual atmosphere
of Alla Vecchia Bettolo fool you: this is Florentine
cooking at its finest. (from the newsletter)
Alla Vecchia Bettola
Viale Ariosto, 32/34r
055 224 158
Osteria
Santo Spirito, with its colorful walls,
upstairs dining nook, imaginative artwork, and
hip crowd reminded us of New York's East Village.
In fact, it was an East Village resident that
recommended this restaurant to us, and as soon
as we were seated we knew why she did so: the
funky ambiance and art-filled walls must have
helped her to feel right at home.
But this place is in Florence,
and in many ways it was also quite different
from New York. The young, attractive staff were
friendly and helpful, the other diners were
all Italians, and the food was inexpensive and
delicious. We loved this restaurant! Standing
out among our memories of our evening in Piazza
Santo Spirito is this: three young boys, each
about 12 or 13 years old, came to the restaurant,
with reservations and without adults. What made
these youngsters so memorable to us was the
natural ease with which they approached their
restaurant visit. We were impressed as we watched
them order and navigate their dining experience.
To see young people with an appreciation for
great food, combined with easy manners and hearty
appetites isn't something we experience every
day. These young fellows warmed our hearts.
Among our favorite dishes at
Osteria Santo Spirito, in addition to the penne
recipe at the beginning of our newsletter, were
a huge platter of rucola covered with shavings
of parmigiano and served with thick, green extra
virgin olive oil and sweet aceto balsamico to
sprinkle over it all. We also enjoyed a wonderful
dish of linguine with the tiniest baby clams,
fresh and briny, and more of them than I could
count. Dozens and dozens of these delicious
tiny creatures, in their shells as small as
a child's thumbnail, crowded the plate. I thought
I couldn't eat them all, but of course, I did.
(from the newsletter)
Each
time we visit Florence, we make sure to stop
at Da Sergio for an incredible lunch. Over the
years, this authentic old trattoria, operated
by the same family for over 4 decades, has never
failed to thrill us. Da Sergio is open Monday
through Saturday, and only for lunch (11 am
to 2:30 pm). We find that taking time out for
a midday meal at Da Sergio serves
us well: the brisk service and central location
add to the enjoyment of a busy day of sightseeing.
We first wondered in some years
ago, while exploring the stalls of the San Lorenzo
street market, buying souveniers and bargain
hunting. Hidden behind the many vendor stalls
that line the via della Ruosina, Da Sergio is
easy to miss. We urge you to leave the shopping
for a bit, and enter this old marble floored
restaurant, with two bright rooms lined with
wooden benches and filled with happy diners;
you will be glad that you did. Most of the diners
at Da Sergio appear to be regulars, some with
their own vino and acqua bottles bearing their
names. Everyone seems happy, and everyone seems
to be eating quite a lot.
On our most recent visit, we
had calamari that was deliciously crisp, light
and tender, and a wonderful dish of penne in
a simple fresh tomato sauce. In the past, we've
enjoyed a rich slice of tender, wine flavored,
roast veal, and a hearty vegetable minestrone.
Meals at Da Sergio are reasonably priced, efficiently
served and always eminently eatable, and although
the waiters don't appear to speak English, we
have always found them willing to do what it
takes to communicate with us. We highly recommend
a visit to our favorite casual restaurant in
Firenze. (from the newsletter)
Da Sergio
Via della Ruosina, 2r
055 218 550
Our friend Elizabeth, of the
Florencevillas.com team, suggested Osteria De'
Benci to us, and we were very happy that she
did. The highlight of our meal was the outstanding
filetto di Chianina that we shared. Despite
our fear of cholesterol, we found ourselves
eating Tuscany's signature beef quite often
during our week's stay. This version was a mangeable
size for two of us to share, crisp and brown
on the outside and meltingly rare on the inside.
We ordered a delicious gratin of creamy potatos
and vegetables to accompany it. The young waiters
bustling about Osteria de' Benci , handsome
as well as friendly and helpful, suggest a delicious
pasta first course to share along with the filetto.
Also at their suggestion, we began with a rich
and delicious antipasto of pate and crostini.
Their kind and able hospitality greatly enhanced
our enjoyment of our meal, and we look forward
to returning. Their card tells us that "La Domenica
Ci Riposiamo" so make sure to go during the
week. (from the newsletter)
Osteria De' Benci
Via de' Benci, 13r
055 2344 923
Outside
Florence
Lecchi
One of the best eating experiences
I have had was with my young children at the
Ristorante Omero on the Colle
Arcetri near Firenze. The hill on which it is
placed is above the Oltrarno (up from the Piazzale
Michelangelo). The food was excellent and the
setting on a terrace over the valley of the
Arno very beautiful. (unsigned, from a reader)
Without a doubt my husband
and I, with friends, would applaude Il
Poggio in Lecchi. We discovered Il
Poggio Restaurant last year while we were visiting
Tuscany. Thanks to a suggestion from a wine
store owner in Gaiole. Their spaghetti was amazing
and I would love the recipe. The veal scallopini
melted in your mouth, the blend of flavours
just added to an ultimate dining adventure.
Barbara Dolding
Siena
Trequandra
Il Ghibbellino- In
the shadow of the duomo. Great food, good prices,
good natured staff, fun to talk with. Victor
Winograd
Ristorante Il Conte
Matto: Last year we spent a month in
Tuscany. Of all the places we ate and stayed,
we thought the restaurant in the small village
of Trequandra was the very best! We went back
again and again. We especially enjoyed their
spinach dish and anything with truffles on it!
The Conte Matto was clean,
with a lovely view and great wait staff. We
felt very lucky to have found such a special
place tucked away in the Tuscan hills. You can
use my name...or not... Salute! Jacqueline Medill
Volpaia
We had the pleasure too of
savouring the fresh daily made pasta of La Bottega
in Volpaia several times. What a memorable
eating experience!! Barbara Dolding
Once again, many thanks to
those who participated, and to anyone who would
like to add another recommendation, we gladly
await your tips. We will hopefully publish an
updated version of the Tuscan Dining Directory
at the end of this year, or early in 2005.
We invite you to view our accommodations, and perhaps
make plans of your own to
visit Bella Toscana, our beautiful corner of Italy.
www.florencevillas.com