Known in English as the Crèche, or sometimes the Manger Scene, Il Presepe are of medieval European origin and the presentation of such Nativity scenes is as popular in Tuscany as it is throughout Italy. The word crèche is an ancient one, and it originally meant the very same thing as the word manger, that is the shallow open box or trough that was used to feed farm animals, and that we see as the cradle for the newborn Holy Infant. Both crèche and manger are words of French origin. The popular dialect spoken by Roman soldiers in the then-Roman area that is now France was the beginning of the French language, and we can see how very close the ties are to Rome and thus, Italian.

So much of early Christianity had its roots in Italy, and the presentation of Nativity scenes dates back to the earliest days of the Church. It wasn't until the middle ages, however, that such presentations became popular, and artisans and craftsmen began to carve Nativity scenes from wood. It was Italy's revered Saint Francis of Assisi, San Francesco, the patron saint of our country, who really popularized the creation of Nativity scenes, and also began the tradition of celebrating Christmas Eve.

In the year 1223, in a cave near the town of Greccio, Francis led a group of local peasants, and monks from a small monastery at Greccio, in the first Christmas Eve "pageant" and celebration. On the night of December 24, 1223, San Francesco lined the floor of the cave with straw, and brought the same barnyard animals into it that were said to have been present at the Nativity in Bethlehem. He placed a rough wooden crib in the cave and several peasants attended the scene. That night, the monks led many of the villagers to the cave, and they were followed throughout the dark, cold night, by people from miles around who wanted to witness the scene created by Francis.

A century later, Giotto painted a Nativity scene on the walls of the cave, and the simple grotto of Greccio has been a pilgrimage site ever since that first Christmas Eve night of 1223. The tradition of the live Nativity scene, of course, also dates from that night.

Living Presepe are popular in Italy, as men, women, and animals recreate the Nativity. Churches and museums, town squares and town halls, all present crèches. A visit to Tuscany during the Christmas season will provide ample opportunities to view such scenes. In fact, several are mentioned in our last two newsletters.

Another way to remember the Nativity scene is to purchase small crèches for the home, or for gifts. Shops throughout Florence, Siena, and all of Tuscany feature beautiful scenes for sale, many in the style of Naples, which is Italy's major producer of Nativity scenes.

Capelletti in Brodo 

Capelletti in capon broth is, as we have said, a very typical Christmas Dinner dish, originating in the countryside of Tuscany. The capons were fattened for the holidays, as were turkeys, hens, ducks, geese, and other barnyard fowl. Here is a traditional recipe for Capelletti in broth to serve as a first course for the holiday dinner.

Pasta

• 5 eggs
• 5 cups flour

Make a well with the sifted flour, and add the eggs, one at a time. Using the fingers or a fork, draw a little flour into the center of the well to mix in each egg. The dough will be fairly stiff, and will require about 15 minutes of vigorous kneading to make it pliable. Roll the dough into a ball, and let it rest on a floured surface, under a bowl, for about 20 minutes.

Filling

• 2 cups ricotta, drained
• 1 cup grated Tuscan Pecorino Fresca, or another creamy Tuscan cheese
• 2 eggs, lightly beaten
• 1 cup aged, sharp Pecorino, grated

To Make the Capelletti

Roll the rested pasta dough out into a very thin sheet, and using a sharp cookie or biscuit cutter, cut into circles of 3" in diameter.

Blend all the filling ingredients together, and season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Put a small teaspoon full of the filling mixture on each round of pasta. To shape into Capelletti, or "little hats," fold each circle in half, and seal with egg wash or the tines of a fork. Bring both ends of the half circle together, around your index finger, and overlapping the ends, seal them with a very tight pinch.

If you are feeling extremely dexterous, you can fold the rims over toward the outside, to make the brim of the hat.

The Broth

You will need a large pot of a rich stock, and we like to use a capon to make ours. You can use a chicken stock instead, but be sure to enrich it with some beef or veal bones, and lots of aromatic vegetables. Clear the broth, and then bring it to a boil. Add the Capelletti and boil for just a few minutes. You will know that they are done when they reach the top of the broth.

Turn off the heat under the broth, and let the pot sit while guests enjoy the appetizers. Then serve in soup bowls with plenty of extra grated Pecorino Toscano on the side. Enjoy!

Tacchino alla Marcia 

As I am not a fan of boiled capon, traditional though it might be. I enjoy roast turkey, or tacchino, in a preparation with garlic and herbs. I learned to make this dish from my cousin Marcia, and thus, it is named after her; this is absolutely delicious, and I know it will become a favorite with your family and friends as it is with mine. The turkey must be marinated in its rub overnight.

1 whole turkey breast

For each pound of turkey, you will need:

• 1 teaspoon Extra Virgin Tuscan Olive Oil
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves
• 1/4 teaspoon salt

Using a mortar and pestle, mix all the ingredients, except the turkey breast, into a paste. Rub the turkey breast under and over the skin well with the paste. Then, place it in the baking pan and cover, and refrigerate overnight.

Roast in the same pan, uncovered, for 20 minutes per pound, at 325 degrees. A meat thermometer should read 170 degrees. Rest the breast for 15 minutes before slicing.

And now, we wish you a very happy Christmas and a most wonderful New Year! See you again in 2005!