As I said above, I am quite fond of this little town that looks, as one approaches it from the valley below, high on its hilltop, with towers aloft in the bright spring sky, much more imposing than it actually is. Montalcino, despite tourists and a wine business that has burgeoned unexpectedly during the last several years, is a very friendly and approachable town.

The small warren of streets that wind up to the ancient 14th century Fortezza are filled with charming shops, enotecas, cafes, and restaurants. Even on a day when tourism was not at its peak, all the shops were open and well stocked, many selling wine accessories, which we found to be wonderful souveniers and gifts for friends and family. Cafes all seemed to be full of delicious pastries to enjoy with coffee, and we had a lunch that was simply wonderful.

A visit to the fortress necessarily includes another local attraction: the Enoteca La Fortezza, which one must pass through to climb the ramparts of the fortress for great views of the town and surrounding countryside. Viewing the Val d'Orcia from this vantage point is terrific: we spent a good hour wandering the rooms of the Fortezza and watching the life in the town and valley below. The Fortress itself was a stronghold of the Republic of Siena, and in one of the rooms inside, the very last battle flag of the Sienese Republic can be viewed. The Enoteca itself is a rather charming and evocative warren of tiny hallways and shelves line to the old stone cielings (and innards of the fortezza) with wines. Tasting and purchasing are, of course, available, and light meals are avaialble during the day.

Situated about twenty miles from Siena, Montalcino overlooks both the Val d'Orcia and the valley of the Ombrone, or Vallombrone. The town grew as a support structure of the Abbey of San Antonio, to which it belonged until 1212, when it was taken by Siena. However, the people rebelled early on and declared loyalty to the rival Florentines. In 1260 the battle Montaperti settled the question in favor of Siena and the situation of Montalcino made it a perfect stronghold for that republic. During the 16th century Montalcino was annexed as a part of Tuscany.

Montalcino rises in the heart of southern Tuscany. In the Middle Age

While the Fortezza is the must see stop for those visiting Montalcino, other worthy destinations include the Piazza Garibaldi where one can find the 11th Century Chiesa San Egidio, home of works of art by Luca di Tomme and Francesco Calzi. The Museo di Civico features more works by Tomme and other artists from the area. The Palazzo Comunale houses and interesting exhibit on the history of Brunello di Montalcino and other local wines.

And of course, there is the wine. Montalcino is loaded with places to taste the justly famous Brunello, as is the nearby countryside. We mentioned the Enoteca La Fortezza above, as perhaps the most interesting and attractive of these. However, do not miss the Banfi winery, with its museum and large enoteca. See www.castellobanfi.com for directions and hours. The Fattoria dei Barbi is another necessary stop for eonophiles: see www.fattoriadeibarbi.it.