The way that Easter Sunday is celebrated in Firenze is truly unique and dates back to pagan times. As with many ancient rites of spring, it was enacted to insure a good harvest as the planting season began.

However, the pagan roots of this special event, the Exploding of the Cart, or Scoppio del Carro, aren't easy to trace. We do know that pre-Christian farmers had fire rituals for the first days of spring, and special prayers for a good planting season.

Legend has it that this ritual began with Pazzino de'Pazzi, and almost mythic Florentine warrior, said to be the first man to scale the wales of Jerusalem, a hero of the First Crusade. For his daring, he was presented with flinty shards reported to be parts of the Holy Sepulcher. It was these pieces of stone that were used to light a fire for Holy Week in Pazzi's hometown. The holy fire was paraded through the streets of ancient Firenze as a relic.

How do we get from there to the explosion of a cart as a celebration for Easter? The legend continues and tells us that the fire was transported through the streets in a cart, now called the Brindellone. Surprisingly, this took place on June 24, the Feast Day of St. John the Baptist, who is the patron saint of Firenze.

Throughout the centuries, the carro, or cart, became more and more elaborate. It is said that the cart, rebuilt in grandiose fashion by the Pazzi family, tottered above the crowds at over 30 feet, and a man in rags, dressed as St. John, stood atop the wooden structure. This figure of St. John threw candies and other small treats to the crowd from his lofty perch.

The Brindellone grew, the Holy Candle in it grew, and the whole thing became huge. By the 16th, 17th, or 18th Century, depending on which source one reads, the celebration was taking place in front of Florence's Duomo, Santa Maria del Fiore. Burning Catherine wheels and fireworks were added. In the process, the date of the celebration was moved to Easter Sunday, perhaps as a substitute for those pagan fire rituals of spring, mentioned above. It is said that the date change may have been set by Pope Leo in 850, but this remains shrouded by various legends.

We are perfectly sure of how the Scoppio del Carro takes place today. The Holy Fire is still lit by the ancient shards of the Holy Sepulcher; this part of the ritual takes place in the Chiesa SS. Apostoli, and the flame is placed in the cart. Huge crowds turn out to see the Brindellone pulled into the Piazza del Duomo by two white oxen, and it is accompanied by costumed celebrants and various Church and civic officials.

At the Duomo, the Archbishop of Florence lights the Colombina rocket, shaped like a dove, during the Easter Mass. (The Colombina was added, we think, in the 16th Century.) The Colombina flies out of the Duomo, along a wire, and ignites the Brindellone, to which a large array of fireworks have been attached, in the Piazza outside. If all goes well, a good harvest, or in modern parlance, a prosperous year for the city, is guaranteed.

In our home, Easter has never been celebrated without Carciofi and Abacchio al Forno on the holiday table. Most often, the carciofi, or artichokes, are stuffed with a mixture of cheese, garlic, bread crumbs and olive oil, then baked until they are tender. Over the years, this dish has come to represent celebrations for us, and we prepare it for special occasions. It is at its best at Easter when artichokes arrive in the markets.

Carciofi Ripieni

• 6 medium artichokes
• 1 lemon
• 2 cups bread crumbs, dry or soft as you prefer
• 3/4 cup grated aged Pecorino Toscano
• 1/2 cup chopped flat leaf Italian parsley
• 3 medium cloves of garlic, very finely chopped
• Tuscan Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Remove as many as the outer leaves of the artichokes as look tough, bruised or split. Don't worry about taking off too many; there are plenty under there. Trim the stem, but not too far, and create a flat bottom for the artichokes. Cut off about 1/2 inch of the tops with a sharp blade.

Rinse each artichoke under water, and place in a large bowl of water into which you have squeezed half the lemon. This acidulated water will keep them from turning brown on their cut edges.

I drain these upside down on a clean dish cloth as I prepare the filling. Put all the rest of the ingredients, except the olive oil, in a bowl and mix well. Now, hold each trimmed artichoke over the bowl, and spread the leaves with the fingers of one hand, while filling the gaps with a teaspoon and the bread crumb mixture. The goal is to get as much of the filling distributed evenly as one can.

Place all the filled artichokes in a baking dish, and liberally pour olive oil to taste over each one. I think that nearly a tablespoon for each is about the right amount. Pour a scant cup of water, or even water and white wine, into the baking dish. Cut the remaining piece of lemon up, and tuck around the artichokes. Cover securely with foil, and bake at 350 for about 1 and 1/2 hours. The leaves should pull out easily when they are done.

These should be cooled a bit before serving. Enjoy.

As in most formerly Catholic countries, Easter in Italy is a sacred season, accompanied by several traditions and cultural customs. Easter Sunday remains a special family time, and even those families that do not attend Easter services still get together for family dinners. For those that attend Mass, new clothes in the latest spring fashions are often the norm.

This most holy week begins for many Christians on Palm Sunday, where church worshippers receive palm fronds at Mass. Traditionally, many of the people who receive palm weave the fronds into crosses to wear, or to place on the graves of their departed loved ones. A visit to cemetery is traditional, and purchased palm ornaments, or spring flowers, are also used to decorate the graves.

On Good Friday, the day that Christ was crucified, many communities in Italy, from large cities to tiny villages, remember the day with Passion processions. In some places, the Cross is carried, in others, people reenact the Stations of the Cross. In Rome, the Pope himself, his health allowing, leads a procession that begins at the Coliseum.

All of these religious events lead up to the celebration of the Resurrection with High Mass and family gatherings on Easter Sunday. Among the dishes that are featured on the Pasqua table are lamb and special stuffed or layered pasta dishes such as lasagna and manicotti. Special pastries are served, and many, many people purchase the large, foil covered eggs filled with a tiny surprise.

Easter Monday is a work holiday for large numbers of people, and in warmer climes, a picnic marks the day.