One
of our very favorite activities in Italy,
and especially here in Tuscany, is to visit
antique markets, flea markets, and weekly
produce markets. Not long ago, we wrote about
the weekly market in Siena, and now, I have
decided to put together a directory of markets
throughout Tuscany. I hope it will inspire
you to plan trips to some of our special markets,
because we have had more fun, and bought more
wondrous treasures at these markets than anywhere
else we have shopped. And while you are marketing,
perhaps you will come across a stand with
bunches of beautiful fresh rapini, and you
will try our latest recipe. Read on!
Rapini,
also known in some places as Broccoli Rabe,
or even Broccoli Raab, is a favorite green in
my family. Rapini has a strong flavor and it
is known as a bitter green. Because of this,
it is best served with other assertive flavors.
Our recipe features garlic and hot chili pepper
flakes, but another great way to serve Rapini
is with spicy sausage. In fact, sausage could
be an excellent addition to this recipe if you
are looking for a great one dish meal.
Rapini is part of the cruciferous vegetable family that includes its cousin, broccoli. Both vegetables have tight flower heads, but the stems of rapini are much thinner, though still tough and in need of generous trimming. Rapini also features long, spiky leaves that should be included in cooking. This vegetable grows well in the Mediterranean climates of France and Italy, and it is becoming more and more popular in similar climes, such as California and parts of Australia.
This is a simple recipe that serves 4 to 6 people as a first course or side dish. If you love rapini as we do, I think this recipe will be an excellent addition to your repertoire, and if you haven't tried this healthful green yet, I hope you will be inspired to so now.
A note: According to Ocean Mist, American growers of Rapini, at the OceanMist.com website, this is the best way to clean and blanch Rapini: "Remove the “skirt” that holds the bunch of rapini together. Rinse well in plenty of cold water. Trim base of stems and discard. Cut the rest of the stems, leaves and tops crosswise into 2-inch lengths. Most cooks like to blanch the rapini before cooking, to reduce its bitterness.
To blanch: Drop cut rapini into a large pot of boiling, salted water and let it boil for 2 to 3 minutes.... If you’ll be serving the rapini with pasta, save the blanching water to cook the pasta. And, if you won’t be cooking the rapini right away, cool it by plunging it into an ice water bath. Drain well."
Penne With Rapini Ingredients
2 bunches Rapini, cleaned and blanched as
per above
Tuscan Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 or 3 large garlic cloves, smashed and
left whole for easy removal
Coarse salt
Red pepper flakes to taste
2 Tablespoons Butter
1 Pound Penne Pasta, cooked al dente
1 ladle hot pasta water
Sauté the garlic in the Olive Oil until tender, then add the blanched Rapini, and season with the salt and red pepper flakes. I did not name an amount of oil, because I have found that the rapini sometimes absorbs the oil to a greater or lesser extent. In any case, you will want the pasta to be adequately dressed, but not sopping with oil.
Just as the pasta finishes cooking, add the butter to the rapini, followed quickly by the ladle of hot water. Stir these, and the sauce will blend beautifully and not separate. Add the drained pasta to the cooked rapini, remove the garlic, adjust seasonings, and serve hot.
Tuscany's
Best Antique Markets
Arezzo:
We recently spent an absolutely wonderful day
and night in Arezzo, where we journied for two
specifics reasons: to visit the wonderful Piero
della Francesca frescoes in the Church of San
Francesco, and to attend the monthly Antiques
Market, perhaps the best known in Italy, and
certainly the most famous in Tuscany.
This market is known for furniture, with dealers coming from all over Italy to participate, and I was a bit afraid that we might not be able to make any purchases, since furniture wasn't on our list at this time. I was delighted to find that though there was plenty of furniture for sale, there were abundant stalls selling myriad types of other items.
Jewelry, from fine to costume, paintings, religious articles, plate, crockery, kitchen and cooking items, silver of all descriptions, ceramics and books were just some of the offerings that enthralled us. We saw amazing antique toys, including two child sized automobiles that we couldn't bring home, but longed to.
Among the items we did purchase
were a book from the 1960s on the subject of
unusual models made by Fiat at that time; a
lovely little blue Royal Copenhagen dish, featuring
a lake scene set against mountains; and an Ex
Voto. These silver medallions are becoming more
and more difficult to find, and as I collect
them, I was thrilled with the selection and
prices at the Arezzo Antiques Fair.
The fair is held on the first
Sunday and preceding Saturday of every month.
Note that it is not the first weekend of the
month, but the first Sunday and the Saturday
that precedes it. Stalls line the streets of
the town leading up to the Piazza Grande, which
is filled with dealers and their wares.
Arezzo is loaded with other
shops, and many of those are antique stores.
We found that all restaurants and shops were
open and busy during the days of the fair. Several
stores and bakeries were selling porchetta sandwiches,
and they made the perfect, most delicious luncheon
fare for us.
Carmignano: This market
is held on the first Sunday of the month in
Piazza Vittorio Emanuale.
Cortona: This lovely
little town has an antiques and flea market
on the third weekend of every month. It is centered
in the area around Palazzo Casali.
Florence: Florence's
monthly antiques market is held on the last
Sunday of each month at Piazza Ciompi.
Lucca: Lucca is a wonderful
town for markets, and those include the Antiques
Market that takes place on the third Saturday
and Sunday of every month. Dealers set up in
the Piazza San Giuto and surrounding streets,
where they offer a surprising number of French
pieces, perhaps connected with the towns Napoleonic
history. Many dealers sell lace, ceramics, and
other small goods.
Prato: The market in
Prato, an easy journey from Firenze, takes place
three times a year in the Piazza del Comune:
On the Saturday before Easter, September 8,
and on Christmas Day. Antique linens and old
books are the specialty items here, but you
can also find many other antiques, as well as
crafts and food stuffs.
Siena: Siena holds a
small antiques market featuring various collectibles
on the third Sunday of the month, but not in
July or August. This market is held in the Cloister
of San Domenico.
Scarperia: held on the
first Sunday of the month in Piazza Via Roma.
A
List of Weekly Markets in Tuscany
Since
we wrote about market day in Siena, it has occurred
to us that a trip to a local market can be fun
no matter where one is in Tuscany. Since our
properties are numerous, and scattered throughout
the region, I thought a brief guide to weekly
market days, where fresh produce, bread, cheese
and other items are sold, might be of use to
our readers. Here is my list, and if any of
our readers knows of a market day we've missed,
or an antiques market that isn't in our list
above, please write and we will feature your
recommendations in an upcoming newsletter.
Market Days
LUNEDI
Abbadia San Salvatore (SI), Castagneto Carducci (LI), Castel San Niccolò (AR), Castelfranco di Sotto (PI), Foiano della Chiana (AR),Lari (PI), Pieve Santo Stefano (AR), San Casciano in Val di Pesa (FI), Seravezza (LU), Subbiano (AR), Suvereto (LI).
MARTEDI
Arcidosso(GR), Bientina (PI), Borgo San Lorenzo (FI), Buggiano (PT), Capannoli (PI), Carmignano (PO), Cecina (LI), Chiusi (SI), Cinigiano (GR), Cutigliano (PT), Fauglia (PI), Figline Valdarno (FI), Fivizzano (MS), Gavorrano (GR), Montemurlo (PO), Monteroni d'Arbia (SI), Peccioli (PI), Piazza al Serchio (LU), San Giuliano Terme (PI), San Miniato (PI), Sansepolcro (AR), Sinalunga (SI), Stia (AR).
MERCOLEDI
Bagno a Ripoli (FI), Bucine (AR), Calenzano (FI), Campo nell'Elba (LI), Capalbio (GR), Castel Focognano (AR), Castelnuovo Val di Cecina (PI), Certaldo (FI), Chianciano Terme (SI), Chiesina Uzzanese (PT), Civitella in Val di Chiana (AR), Forte dei Marmi (LU), Fucecchio (FI), Gallicano (LU), Laiatico (PI), Magliano in Toscana (GR), Massa Marittima (GR), Monte San Savino (AR), Piombino (LI), Pitigliano (GR), Ponsacco (PI), Pontassieve (FI), Pontremoli (MS), Roccastrada (SI).
GIOVEDI
Agliana (PT), Altopascio (LU), Bibbiena (AR), Bibbona (LI), Campiglia Marittima (LI), Casciana Terme (PI), Cascina (PI), Castelnuovo Berardenga (SI), Castiglion Fibocchi (AR), Chiusdino (SI), Guardistallo (PI), Lucignano (AR), Marciana (LI), Minucciano (LU), Montecatini Terme (PT), Montepulciano (SI), Montevarchi (AR), Pietrasanta (LU), Rapolano Terme (SI), San Giovanni Valdarno (AR), Santa Maria a Monte (PI), Viareggio (LU), Vicchio (FI).
VENERDI
Camaiore (LU), Capolona (AR), Castelfranco di Sopra (AR), Castiglion Fiorentino (AR), Colle di Val D'Elsa (SI), Follonica (GR), Lamporecchio (PT), Montemurlo (PO), Pienza (SI), Ponte Buggianese (PT), Pontedera (PI), Portoferraio (PI), Pratovecchio (AR), Sarteano (SI), Terranuova Bracciolini (AR), Torrita di Siena (SI), Vecchiano (PI), Villafranca in Lunigiana (MS).
SABATO
Agliana (PT), Aulla (MS), Barberino di Mugello (FI), Barga (LU), Buonconvento (SI), Castelfiorentino (FI), Castellina in Chianti (SI), Castellina Marittima (PI), Castiglione d'Orcia (SI), Castiglione della Pescaia (GR), Cetona (SI), Civitella Paganico (GR), Cortona (AR), Fiesole (FI), Greve in Chianti (FI), Impruneta (FI), Larciano (PT), Lastra a Signa (FI), Manciano (GR), Montelupo Fiorentino (FI), Montopoli in Val d'Arno (PI), Orbetello (GR), Pescia (PT), Pieve a Nievole (PT), Pieve Fosciana (LU), Pontremoli (MS), Porto Azzurro (LI), Quarrata (PT), Reggello (FI), San Giovanni Val D'Arno (AR), Santa Croce Sull'Arno (PI), Sesto Fio
rentino (FI), Volterra (PI).
DOMENICA
Monterchi (AR).
Our
Accommodations
Basing yourself in one of our lovely villas or apartments
is the perfect way to plan trips to a variety of antique
markets here in Tuscany. To see our properties, please
visit
We invite you to
view our online directory of accommodations, and make plans
to visit Bella Toscana, our beautiful corner of Italy. www.florencevillas.com