You may already know that asparagus is a favorite vegetable in Italy, and grows quite successfully all over the country, but especially in the central and northern regions. Perhaps you have enjoyed it while visiting in a frittata or another presentation. May is the month of the greatest asparagus harvest, and to celebrate, we offer you this simple and delicious recipe for asparagus roasted in the oven. Not only is this simple and good, but it is also quite healthful and low in fat. If you are a stickler, you can reduce the olive oil by just a bit and it will still turn out well. Enjoy!

• 1 bunch asparagus serves 2 to 3 (can double or triple recipe easily)
• 1 Tablespoon grated lemon peel
• Juice of 1/2 lemon
• 2-3 very coarsely chopped cloves of garlic
• coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
• 2 Tablespoons Tuscan Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

To trim the asparagus, gently bend each stalk to its natural breaking point. This will insure that only the tender parts of the stalk remain. Another way to do this is to cut off an inch or two from the bottom, then generously peel about 1/3 of the way up the stalk. I prefer the first method, as it is much easier and about the same amount of asparagus is left behind.

Lay asparagus flat on a heavy baking sheet with a rim, such as a jelly roll sheet, or in a shallow roasting pan. Sprinkle with the grated lemon peel, coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Next, sprinkle with the coarsely chopped garlic and drizzle with the lemon juice. Finally, drizzle the asparagus with the olive oil. Shake the pan to evenly distribute all the ingredients.

An interesting side product of this recipe is blue garlic! Don't be alarmed: the interaction of the asparagus, lemon juice and garlic often leaves a bright blue tint on the garlic. I suggest chopping the garlic very coarsely so that it is easy to remove before serving.

Bake for about 10 to 15 minutes, depending on how well done you prefer your vegetables, shaking the pan once or twice to further distribute the ingredients and insure even browning. Serve at any temperature: these are good hot, at room temperature, or even chilled.

An Overview

Fiesole is one of the most perfect day trips from Florence. As I said above, it has so much to offer, and it is so very easy to reach. Just 9 kilometers from the heart of Florence, city buses take visitors and residents alike to Fiesole in about 20 minutes. Buses leave from the central bus plaza near the main train station in Florence, and also from Piazza San Marco. Even a taxi is only about 12 Euros, so for a few people, it is a reasonable way to travel to Fiesole from any point in Florence. Taking the bus back to city center couldn't be easier. All buses leave from Piazza Mino in Fiesole, and the bus schedule is clearly marked at the stop.

Larger than a village, but still a very small town, Fiesole is home to about 15, 000 inhabitants, a third or so of whom live in the ancient city center, with another third in the outlying streets, and yet another third scattered through the surrounding hills. The town itself is known as the "roof of Florence" for good reason: the hills start to rise just north of Florence and reach their peak in Fiesole near the Convent and Church of San Francisco. Spectacular views of Florence are available from vantage points scattered throughout Fiesole.

The landscape around the ancient small city is both agrarian and forested, punctuated with olive trees, cypresses, and views of the great villas perched here and there among the trees. The picturesque quality of Fiesole not only lies outside the town, but within, where in 1983 a resolution was passed to preserve the ancient qualities of the town's architecture and landscaping, thus saving the cultural beauty of a gem of a small Tuscan town. This beauty is further preserved in that there are no industries within Fiesole and its borders; instead, small artisanal companies flourish.

History

There is evidence supporting the presence of man in Fiesole since the Bronze Age. Archaeological finds support a strong Iron Age presence in the area, and of course, the Etruscans had a successful modern city in Fiesole. The Etruscan town that once flourished here was politically organized as a city state, with a rich and complex economy.

This Etruscan city that was once what is now modern Fiesole was encircled by defensive walls; its geographic position provided a strategic advantage in controlling the area between Etruria's southern center and the Po, from where Northern invaders would mount their attempts to conquer the city.

Later, Fiesole allied itself with Rome in the struggle against Hannibal. But just a hundred or so years later, the city was destroyed for the anti-Roman positions it had later taken: Fiesole became the center of the anti-Roman Revolution of Catalina. Suffering a defeat, Fiesole soon was rebuilt as a typical Roman city. A Roman theater was built; a Roman temple erected over the Etruscan one; and a monumental thermal complex was also erected by the Roman conquerors.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Fiesole continued to be a prime target for conquerors. Next to occupy her hilltop were the Longobardi, and numerous graves, tools, and implements of living have been discovered from that period. But the eventual rise of Florence eclipsed Fiesole's strategic position, and Fiesole's importance as a military stronghold began to gradually diminish. However, as the town lost its military importance, it began to gain importance as an immense and powerful diocese of the Catholic Church, with many ties to Rome. The earliest traceable mention of a bishop of Fiesole occurs in the late 5th century. The bishops of Fiesole soon acquired great political influence, and governed an immense territory that the diocese still controls, albeit in only a religious function, today.

Jacopo, Bishop of Bavaro, founded Fiesole's cathedral in the 11th century. But during the 12th century, the increasingly powerful Florentine church conquered Fiesole's bishops and forced them to become part of the Fiorentino territory. Sadly, this period marks the destruction of Fiesole's monumental Roman theater, temple, and baths, as the dominant Florentines used them as a quarry to build their own spectacular constructions. Much of what we see in 12th century Florentine stone construction was built with materials raided from Fiesole.

During the Renaissance, Fiesole became a popular spot for the wealthy of Florence to build their holiday villas. Many of these gorgeous villas dot the surrounding hills, and some can be visited by the public. The artistic spirit of the Renaissance inspired the sculpture, paintings, architecture and gardens of the grand villas. The cypresses, introduced by the Etruscans, were wisely used by the wealthy builders and their landscape architects to define and introduce the approaches to the villas and palaces. Taking into account the building of these grand villas, and the plunder-quarrying of her Roman monuments, it is easy to see how the once powerful military town gradually became populated by a class of builders, stone masons, and other construction artisans and workers.

As Italy began to unite, during the second half of the 19th century, the immense job of restoring the antiquities of Fiesole also began. A huge rush of civic improvement took place; roads were built, public areas were improved, and, in 1873, the remains of the Roman amphitheater became an archaeological zone. The Civic Museum, housing Etruscan and Roman treasures from Fiesole's past, was established 1878.

The Civic Museum of Fiesole was established where it now stands, adjacent to the Roman amphitheater and baths, in 1914. It was rebuilt as the really remarkable facility that it is today between 1981 and 1990. The Museum is truly a work of art; its depth, character, organization and presentation are all world class. It should absolutely not be missed. This is the showplace of Fiesole's ancient legacy; its archaeological riches on display are equal in impact to the panoramic beauties of the town.

The Roman Forum and Archaeological Museum
Via Portigiani, 1 - Fiesole

As I said above, the Archaeological Museum in Fiesole is one of the best of its kind, but the entire complex, for which one can purchase a single ticket for admittance to both the Roman ruins and the museum, is well worth the visitors' time.

The Etruscan stronghold at Fiesole was modified into a Roman city at about 80 BC. A good deal of building was done by the Romans, and as we now know, they constructed a rather splendid town at Fiesole.

The Roman architectural complexes were discovered by archaeologists in 1792, and the Etruscan discoveries soon followed. The 3000 seat Roman theater was restored, beginning in 1911, and in the course of the restoration, many more ruins were uncovered.

The Roman baths at Fiesole proved to be as vast and complex as most similar Roman complexes. A wonderful morning or afternoon can be spent combing the ruins, using the easy to follow map and guide that are provided with the entrance ticket.

The exhibits in the museum mainly come from the excavations, and a few are gifts that were in the hands of others before the museum was established. On view are Roman busts, Etruscan urns, various inscriptions, coins, various containers and vases and a piece of the theater's frieze. However, it is the presentation that makes the exhibits come alive and have meaning for the viewer.

Cathedral of Fiesole
Piazza Mino da Fiesole

The cathedral of Fiesole, at the bottom of Piazza Mino, is dedicated to San Romolo, or St. Romulus as he is known in English. He was the first Bishop of Fiesole and a revered martyr. The Duomo's building began in the 11th century, and it was remodeled at the end of the 19th century. Some of the piers on the side aisles are capped with reused Roman capitals. The interior is quite evocative and carries with it a sense of antiquity that belies the remodeling and restoration dates.

The Church and Convent of San Francesco
Piazza San Francesco
Tel 055 59175

A steep stepped street leads off the Piazza Mino to the top of Fiesole and the Church and Convent of San Francesco. The buildings here were begun during the first decade of the 13th century, and a convent dwelling was established in 1330. The hilltop site, with spectacular views, was once the Etruscan Acropolis.

In 1380, the Catholic community that gradually became established here embraced the rule of the order of San Agostino, but in 1399, the nuns left for another location and the church and convent passed into the possession of the Franciscans. The Franciscans added to the complexes size and artistic treasures, and in 1516 they renamed the complex for St. Francis, the patron Saint of Italy.

We have found on repeated visits that various parts of the complex are open to the public at different times, while the church is generally open until the late afternoon. The cloistered interior courtyard can usually be viewed, but we have been unable to see the monks cells, though we have read that visits are permitted. We have found the steep walk up the hill to always be worth our time; not only are views of Florence below breathtaking, but the serenity and antiquity of the Franciscan complex are moving and inspiring.

Badia Fiesolana
Via della Badia dei Roccettini

The Badia Fiesolana is an ancient cathedral placed at the foot of the hill on which the city stands; it is said to be built on the site of the martyrdom and San Romolo. Also on this spot was an ancient cathedral dedicated to San Pietro. That original church was replaced by the Camaldoli friars with the one we see today with its striking green and white marble facade, reminiscent of San Miniato al Monte.

The monastery here dates from the 12th century.

Church of San Domenico
San Domenico - Fiesole

All of the roads, including the steep one from the Badia Fiesolana, leading from Florence and its valley, to the hilltop of Fiesole, converge on the plateau that is home to the Church of San Domenico and its convent. The convent was founded in 1406, and the church was annexed to it later, in the early Renaissance years. The tribune and choir were rebuilt between the 16th and 17th centuries; at the same time, the bell tower and the porch on the facade were added.

The Convent and Church contain many art treasures; there are various paintings by Fra Angelico, which are, of course, the true treasures to be found here. It was here at San Domenico that Fra Angelico da Fiesole, that famous friar/artist of Florence and Rome, first served as a novice. San Domenico was also the home the revered St. Antoninus of Florence, and Fra Domenico Buonvicini who was burned at the stake in Florence in 1498 along with Savonarola.

Piazza Mino
Piazza Mino da Fiesole

No matter how one arrives in Fiesole, Piazza Mino is likely to be the first stop. Many of Fiesole's important structures line the square, including the 11th century Rectory, the Bishop's Palace, and the Seminary. The Palazzo Pretorio sits above the eastern side of the large piazza, named after Mino da Fiesole. The square if full of shops and restaurants, and the well run tourist office sits just behind it.

Two of our favorite places to stop to eat in Fiesole are both on the Piazza Mino. Ristorante Perseus, at number 9, has a lovely back garden where, in the warmer months, diners can enjoy lunch or dinner just across from the Roman amphitheater. I had a terrific porchetta with roast potatoes here, and my husband enjoyed a Pizza al Quatro Stagione. We followed our meal up with a terrific cafe machiato, beautifully prepared. The bruschetta, crostini, and gnochetti are also recommended.

Another excellent stop is Pizzeria Etrusca, which attracts a large crowd to its outdoor tables during the summer months. This is a crowded, friendly and bustling place where the pizza and local specialties are all good.