We here in Tuscany place special value on honey. Not only is it delicious, but ancient traditions, still widely practiced, tell us that our honey has wonderful medicinal, restorative, and restful properties. Of course, its nutritional value is quite high, and honey is easily digested, it can be quite energizing. Honey is also thought of as relaxing and encouraging sleep when mixed with a liqueur, fortified wine, or warm milk. It is also used in traditional recipes for calming symptoms of illness. Milk, honey and cognac are mixed together to treat flu symptoms, and stuffiness or other cold and allergy symptoms are treated with eucalyptus honey.

The honey produced here in Tuscany is some of the finest in the world. We consistently win top honors in worldwide competitions for producers of quality honey. In order to maintain the highest standards of production, our Tuscan beekeepers and honey producers have gone to the European Union for special consideration. Although several areas in Italy have been racing to obtain special EU designations for their honey, honey from Tuscany is the first to obtain the highly coveted IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) certification. As of today, we are the only region that has succeeded in receiving this designation for honey.

The IGP is only given to the very best farm food products and it assures consumers of the origin of any farm product labeled with the Protected Geographical Indication. Thus, if it says Tuscan Honey on the label, you can be sure it is produced with only Tuscan methods and product gathered from Tuscan beehives. Working in collaboration with ARSIA, the Tuscany Regional Development Board, and the regional government itself, Tuscan apiculturists have sought special certification for several years, and it was finally awarded late this summer.

Additionally, obligatory origin labels have been added to all Italian honeys, allowing shoppers to choose a product that offers guaranteed health and quality standards. An onslaught of inferior products from the Far East threatened Tuscan and Italian honey producers, but now that all labels will indicate Italian production, and, of course, the IGP designation will appear on special Tuscan honey, consumers can choose the finest products with confidence. EU legislation dealing with the production and marketing of honey demands the obligation of a label indicating the country in which the honey has been gathered. The word Italy must now be present on the label of any honey entirely gathered in this country.

Our Tuscan honey is often labeled in ways that indicate how the actual bees themselves made it, indicating some general as well as some specific kinds of honey. Miele di nettare is honey that has been produced by nectar obtained from flowers. Miele di melata is honey that is made from plant secretions other than nectar.

We also differentiate our honeys according to their method of extraction from the hive. Miele di favo is honey made and stored by the bees in honeycombs that they have constructed themselves. This honey is sold on the comb. Miele con pezzi is similar, but must only contain one or more pieces of honeycomb. Miele scolato is honey that is drained from the comb without the aid of any mechanics or heat. Miele centrifugato is separated from the comb using a centrifuge, and Miele torchiato is honey from the comb using pressure and/or gentle heat.

In order to clarify things a bit, let me add that miele di favo, miele con pezzi di favo, and honey made from heath called miele di brughiera, must always be clearly labeled as such. If you see the words "vergine integrale" on the label, the honey has been produced without any type of heat, even for purposes of preservation.

And now, if you aren't completely confused, I'll list some of the floral or vegetal types of honey you'll find here in Tuscany.

ACACIA HONEY is sweet and delicate. It's very liquid in viscosity and pale in color.

ALFALFA HONEY has a liquid viscosity, but tends to crystallize with age. It is light amber in color, and sweet, but has slightly sour undertones.

BEACH HONEY comes from the macchia growing along the sand dunes, and is truly Mediterranean in flavor and aroma. It is very fluid, transparent, and pale yellow.

CANE APPLE HONEY is solid in consistency and has an amber color with gray-green reflections. Like chestnut and sunflower honey, it can be bitter.

CHESTNUT HONEY can be light or dark in color, with a bitter taste, a liquid consistency, and the aroma of the forest.

CLOVER HONEY is quite a favorite. It is liquid when fresh but crystallizes when aging. Its flavor is delicate.

FIR TREE SAP HONEY is not made from nectar, but the sugary sap flowing from fir trees. It is very dark; not sweet, but almost resinous in flavor.

HAWTHORN HONEY comes exclusively from the province of Grosseto. Its color is amber-gold, and the flavor is sweet with bitter tones. This honey has a very intense taste.

MILLEFIORI HONEY can be grainy with a slightly bitter aftertaste, but I find it very enjoyable. It is perhaps my favorite of all Tuscan honey.

SUNFLOWER HONEY is yellow-gold and often appears crystallized. I know that it is popular, but I find the taste a bit too bitter, although some describe it as floral.

Perhaps in an alimentari, or a salumneria, you've noticed jars packed with golden, glowing fruit. Often these jars are not just preserved fruit, but instead are an intense mixture known as Mostarda. The most famous Italian mostarda comes from Cremona in Lombardia, we here in Tuscany have a version, too. I find Mostarda all'uso Toscano to be delicious with any salumni products, or boiled meats. I recently ordered a plate of various Tuscan salumni as an appetizer, and the dish was graced with a dollop of our delicious mostardo. This is also absolutely perfect with cheeses, especially soft, veiny ones. With our Pecorino, I like the honey alone, but with a soft blue cheese, the mostardo is perfect. This recipe is rather easy and I think you will love the final product.

Mostarda all'uso Toscano

• 2 pounds seedless grapes
  
  
• 2 pounds small sweet apples, peeled and cut into cubes
  
  
• 2 large sweet pears, peeled and cut into cubes
  
  
• 1 cup Vin Santo or a slightly sweet white wine
  
  
• 1/4 cup candied citrus peel (I prefer orange, but lemon is good, too)
  
  
• 1 lemon, using the juice and grated peel
  
  
• 2 cups Tuscan honey
  
  
• 1 ounce powdered yellow mustard
  
  
• 1 ounce mustard seeds
  

Begin by washing and cooking the grapes over medium heat until they begin to cook down, 20 minutes or so. Then carefully skim any must or debris from the grapes and add the rest of the fruit. Cover and cook over medium heat for 30 minutes.

In a separate pan, add all the other ingredients and cook until the liquid is reduced by nearly half. Combine all ingredients, cool and refrigerate.

Since this mostarda is not preserved by sterilization methods, it is suggested that it be used after opening, but I find it will keep for a few weeks in the refrigerator. I have had success with freezing portions in plastic containers.

Served with meats and cheeses, this is fantastic.

As I mentioned in the introduction and contents sections of this newsletter, the town of Montalcino's biggest event is coming up at the end of October. This is La Sagra del Tordo, or The Festival of the Thrush. The Sagra del Tordo is always held on the last weekend in October and it is an increasingly popular event with visitors from all over the world. Those of you who have read Isabella Dusi's book, Vanilla Beans and Brodo, which I reviewed in a recent newsletter, will have quite a bit of knowledge about this event, as it is a major focus in her writing.

The festival has as much passionate meaning to the residents of Montalcino's four quartieri as does Siena's Palio to its contrade. And although much of the Sagra del Tordo is private, as are many Palio events, there is plenty to attract visitors. While they may not been invited to the several dinners held my each quartiere, visitors can thrill to the medieval archery tournament that is the highlight of the festa. Here, members of each quartiere compete to bring honor to their neighborhood. A marvelous historical pageant accompanies the teams to the archery range, and there is also dancing in the main piazza.

On Saturday of the festival weekend, archery trials are held in the afternoon to choose the competitors. The rest of the day and evening are dedicated to special events for the members of the quartieri, but Sunday is the day that all are welcome to partake in watching, eating and drinking. The cuisine of Montalcino, as well as the famous Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino are sold inside the ancient fortress walls. It becomes quite crowded, but patience and careful planning will reward any savvy traveler who attends with delicious food and wine.

A pageant is held on Sunday morning, and huge Chianina cattle and costumed dancers meet in the Piazza Cavour to begin the procession. Hundreds of citizens in mediaeval costume march behind them, playing music and making their way to the Chiesa San Egidio for a blessing. But this is not the day's major pageant. Another follows in the afternoon, after the citizens have celebrated with a private luncheon. The afternoon pageant makes its way through the village to the archery grounds where the tournament takes place. Two archers from each quartiere compete for their teams, and the winners are heralded as heroes, with dancing, shouting, and bells ringing from their neighborhood churches.

For those of you who like to plan ahead, next years Settimana del Miele will take place in Montalcino on the first week of September. This is a market fair honoring Montalcino's famous honey, and it is held over the course of a week, with most events going on inside the Fortress keep.

But Honey Week isn't just for Montalcino honey. The producers of fine honey from all over Italy attend with their products. For professionals, Italy's oldest exhibition of beekeeping held during honey week is one of their most anticipated events. There is plenty to see and to taste for visitors, and to get next year's dates, try the Montalcino tourist board at www.prolocomontalcino.it