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As
was the case with many of Italy's older high-fashion
companies, the House of Gucci began as a family
owned leather goods and saddler shops, serving
Florence's riders and horse owners.
Guccio Gucci, the son of a Florentine craftsman,
was born in 1881. When he was still a very young
man, Guccio moved to Paris, and then settled
in London, where he rapidly rose to the position
of Maitre d'hôtel in the swank Savoy Hotel.
According to Guccio himself, it was in London
and Paris that he "gained an appreciation
of cosmopolitan culture, sophistication, and
aesthetics."
Gucci eventually returned to Firenze, and opened
his first leather boutique in 1921. This first
Gucci shop was begun with just 30.000 Lira,
but by hiring the finest available craftsman,
Guccio Gucci quickly gained a reputation for
providing quality goods. These hand-crafted
leather goods and accessories for horseback
riders proved popular with a very sophisticated
clientele and the Gucci business began to grow.
In fact, business was so good that Gucci opened
a Roma boutique in 1938. Guccio himself was
designing most of the company's popular accessory
pieces, and when he introduced the bamboo-handled
handbag, still popular today, in 1947, his fame
spread. He was no longer beloved by just the
horsy set: all the fashionable world was now
clamoring for his handbags. In the 1950s, Guccio
Gucci developed the company's famed webbed fabric,
derived from a saddle part, and the Gucci moccasin
with the metal bit. The metal bit, or snaffle-bit,
is, of course, yet another continuing hallmark
of the Gucci brand.
Gucci married Alda Calvelli and they had six
children, but only their four sons, Vasco, Aldo,
Ugo and Rodolfo grew to play significant roles
in the Gucci company leadership. The family
worked closely together and their empire of
shops expanded with new stores in Florence,
Rome and Milan.
Guccio Gucci passed away in 1953, and his son
Aldo took the helm of the company, bringing
them to international prominence. Stores were
opened in London and Paris, and much to Guccio
Gucci's chagrin, shortly before his death his
sons Aldo and Rodolfo insisted on opening an
overseas store in New York. It was the ascendance
of the wishes of Aldo and Rodolfo, rather than
the death of Guccio, that actually marked the
beginning
of the next era for the company.
New shops were soon opened in Palm Beach, Beverly
Hills and Tokyo, and along with the purses and
moccasins, Gucci's famed ties, scarves, and
belt buckles were introduced. Among the jet
set of the day, these items were fashion essentials.
Yet along with their success, the Gucci brothers
experienced a great deal of family strife. They
were nearly as
famous for their ferocious arguments as for
their lovely accessories. The family became
notorious for in-fighting.
As the world shrank, and media and travel grew,
status brands took off and Gucci, along with
another Florentine company, Pucci (see our last
newsletter) became the best known status symbols
of their day. The Gucci company continued to
expand and a huge modern factory was opened
in Florence's suburbs. However, as the company
grew, so did the arguments and finally, in 1989,
Maurizio Gucci, son of Rodolfo, took over as
president of the company.
Interestingly, it was at this point that the
Gucci brand decided to reevaluate their mass
market direction, and return to the tradition
of beautiful hand-crafted merchandise for only
the most discriminating clientele. They cut
their lines and scaled back their production,
concentrating on their most popular items: the
bamboo-handled purse, luggage, shoes, and the
famous Flora scarf, originally created for the
movie star
Grace Kelly, who became Princess Grace of Monaco.
A bag designed for and named after Jackie Kennedy
was also among these best sellers. At this time,
the Gucci family decided to also cut their distributors,
and Gucci products are now sold in only 180
boutiques around the world.
After Rodolfo Gucci died in 1983, there were
many shakeups among the family members, but
Maurizio maintained control and began to seek
company leaders from outside his family. Calvin
Klein and Geoffrey Beene were already designing
for Gucci when Tom Ford was hired, and shot
the company's fashion brands to new heights.
Tom Ford had worked with and was a great admire
of the fashion designer Ralph Lauren. According
to Ford, Lauren was "the only designer
to really create an entire world. You know exactly
what his people look like, what their houses
look like, what kind of cars they drive."
This was the philosophy that Tom Ford brought
to Gucci. He wanted Gucci to be a lifestyle
as well as a fashion company. Ford's designs
for the Gucci label were a huge hit. Stars such
as Madonna, Gwenyth Paltrow and others were
wearing his clothes, making Gucci a top brand.
Ford himself became a celebrity during the late
1990s. Somehow, the market was again flooded
with Gucci items, and the scaled back selectivity
the company had as its goal was now a thing
of the past.
A period of instability followed Ford's stardom,
but now the brand seems to be back on track,
and, more significantly, the Gucci Group is
one of the most powerful entities in the fashion
business. They now own not only all of Gucci
and Yves St Laurent, but significant proportions
of Sergio Rossi, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen
and Stella McCartney. The also own the Fendi
luggage brand and several popular high-end
perfume and jewelry brands.
The Gucci company was named European Company
of the Year in 1998 by the European Business
Press Federation for its financial performance,
strategic planning and management quality. And
it all started at a rather small little leather
boutique in Florence.
Today, you can visit the Gucci store on the
via Tornabuoni, Florence's most swank shopping
street.
Gucci
Via Tornabuoni 73/r
50100 Florence
Tel: +39-055-759221
Fax: +39-55-7592305
Web: http://www.gucci.com
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