Welcome back to this issue of the Tuscan Life Newsletter. In this issue, we will be getting to know a lot more about Siena, its historical importance, and other aspects of daily life in the city.
Siena is a city in Tuscany, Italy. UNESCO has declared the city of Siena as a world heritage site. Siena is situated on the heart of Tuscany and is surrounded by vineyards and olive groves of Chianti. With the Piazza del Campo at the centre, the Duomo and the St Maria della Scala form other famous cultural landmarks of the city. Well known for the ‘Palio’ throughout the world, it is also home to the oldest bank in the world and the oldest University in Europe.
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Oldest marvel still in shape - Monte dei Paschi di Siena
Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena SPA is the oldest bank in the world today. It was founded by the Magistrate of Siena in 1472. With approximately 1,886 branches and 28,000 employees and over 4.5 million customers in Italy, it also has businesses and branches in other countries. The headquarters of the bank is located in the Palazzo Salimbeni. It has a magnificent collection of art and invaluable collection of historical documents, a proof to its existence through the centuries.
The Monte dei Paschi has to its credit an exciting history of long five centuries stretching from 1568 to 1872. The major deposits occupy well over 330 m of space in the shelf. The great salon of the Palazzo also exhibits other objects the bank had used like seals, letters of credit, letters of exchange etc. Most of the documents after 1872 are still preserved at other locations within the premises of the bank. The documents that were dated after the political autonomy of Siena were treated as anything better than the official municipal documents and were deposited in the public record office. When founded in 1472, it was considered as an institution of the state with regulated activities.
When Siena lost its independence, the Medicis of Florence recognized the special status of the bank. The public nature of the bank was confirmed hence and it began to closely involve itself in the economic and social life of the country. The bank obtained administrative autonomy in 1568 and the following activities were recorded in the archives. The savings bank was founded in 1833 along with a finance house building. After Italy was unified, the field of activities of the bank was extended, its structure modified and also divided into several independent enterprises. Today, the conserved archives of the bank have become the most valuable source of information to aid research into the economic history of Italy.
If you happen to be in Siena and still haven’t visited the historical marvel, you might consider a stopover to the same, something that you will really be proud of!
Renowned Medicine and Law Schools - The University of Siena
As already discussed, Siena is abundant with historical marvels. Yet another ‘not to miss’ spectacle is the University of Siena. It is located in Siena, Tuscany and is one of the oldest universities founded in the 13th century. Currently, it has about 20,000 students out the 50,000 of the Siena population. It is well known for its Medicine and Law schools.
In 1240, the podestà of Siena Ildebrandino Cacciaconti signed an order imposing tax on citizens who rented rooms to children to fund the the maestri of the Studium Senese and is one of the first examples of a city to finance a Studium. The components of the University comprised of a School of Grammar, a School of Law and a School of Medicine. The famous philosopher, physician and personal doctor to Emperor Frederick II was an alumnus of the School of Medicine. In 1276, he was elected pope as John XXI.
Pope Innocent IV granted the faculty and students of the Studium an exemption from tax. This was an act of his support to the Studium. Striving hard, the Studium was finally officially recognized by Charles IV. By 1348, intellectuals from all over the world were drawn to it. In 1555, new privileges and statutes were made under Francesco and Grand Duke Ferdinando. The post of Chancellor was also instituted in the same year. In 1848, a group of students, three professors and an assistant professor formed a patriotic group and took part in the battle of Curtatone and Montanara. The chaos caused by this led the Duke to close down the School of Medicine. A series if legislative activities boosted the reputation of the School of Pharmacy and Obstetrics, and finally the School of Medicine. Several attempts to suppress the activities of the Sienese Academy were intervened by the Siena’s population itself. They went a step further by investing to set up new faculties and degrees. The construction of the Biology department was financed by the Monte dei Paschi. By 19th century, the number of students went up to over 20,000 from a mere 400 during the wars. The 750th anniversary was celebrated by the Sienese Academy in 1990. Chancellors from every corner in Europe graced the inaugural function.
Hail knowledge! And the efforts of the Sienese population to keep alive the efforts of the Academy in its noble mission of imparting knowledge to the world!
It’ about time that we take a break and indulge in delighting our palate...
Siena’s Delight - Cavallucci
Ingredients for about 40 cookies:
Water: 2 cups
Sugar: 1 ½ cup
Flour: 1 ½ cup
Chopped walnuts: ½ cup
Chopped candied orange peel: ¼ cup
Ground anise seed: 1 teaspoon
Cinnamon: a pinch
Honey: 1 tablespoon
Butter: 1 tablespoon
Take a saucepan with the water and sugar. Make syrup by heating the pan on a low flame for about 20 minutes. The syrup is ready when a drop of it floats in a glass of cold water. To the syrup slowly add the flour, walnuts, orange peel, spices and honey. Do not forget to gently mix after adding each ingredient till thoroughly blended. Take a floured surface and place the mixture on it to a height of about ½ inch. Using a floured glass cut the cookies and flour them. Transfer them to a buttered sheet and bake them for 30 minutes at 1600C/3250F.
Get ready to savor them when they are just lightly colored!
Osteria Le Logge
The Cuisine: Italian
Working Hours: Mon to Sat noon (2:45 pm and 7-10:30 pm)
Address: Via del Porrione 33
Transport: Bus: A (pink) B, N
Phone: 0577/48-013
Credit Cards Accepted: AE, DC, MC, V
Festivals, celebrations and what not! Man, you are left tired after all these and would indeed love to relax with some good food! Let’s visit one of the restaurants of Siena and find out what they have to offer us! The Osteria Le Logge welcomes you all.
The Osteria Le Logge is situated near the Piazza del Campo. It is one of the best known restaurants in Siena. There are two rooms that preserve the furnishings that the old pharmacy had used. Many famous personalities especially from abroad visit this restaurant in order to taste the delicacies. Some of the mouth watering delights they offer are rabbit with mint, ravioli stuffed with pecorino cheese, duck with grapes, 'pici al baccalà' or ricotta cheese cake and wild berries. The cooking is in a calm and cool surrounding. It is always better to reserve your table. The staff there is very friendly and helpful.
This is really a pleasant place to hang out with your family and enjoy the different but traditional menu laid out here! Have a good eat!
The Palio - Celebration and preparation that continues throughout the year
After those yummy cookies, let’s move on to one of the oldest and world famous sporting event in Siena – the Palio.
The medieval city of Siena becomes extraordinarily lively in the months of July and August. Every year on July 2nd and August 16th the city will witness the most popular folk festival – the Il Palio. The entire city gets ready for the horse races on these two dates in which the 17 Contrade will participate. The 17 Contrade form the backbone of the race. Each Contrada has is distinctly different from each other in all respects. They have their own events, festivals, holidays etc.
Each Contrada has a horse to race. The people of each Contrada carry multicolored handkerchiefs that carry a particular design or logo of their Contrada. The horse will also wear these handkerchiefs. Although the race happens only for a minute and a half or so, the preparation to it is the most attractive aspect of it. The preparations include fund raising; rehearsals etc in the presence of the leaders of the Contrada.
The 17 Contrade
The seventeen Contrade are distinctly different from each other. They are as follows:
Aquila - Eagle, Casato di Sotto
Bruco - Caterpillar, Via del Comune 48
Chiocciola - Snail, Via S. Marco 37
Civetta - Owl, Piazzetta del Castellare
Drago - Dragon, Piazza Matteotti 19
Giraffa - Giraffe, Via delle Vergine 18
Istrice - Hedgehog, Via Camollia 87
Leocorno - Unicorn, Via di Follonica 15
Lupa - She-Wolf, Via Vallerozzi 71/73
Nicchio - Shell, Via dei Pispini 68
Oca - Goose, Vicolo del Tiratoio 13
Onda - Wave, Via G. Duprè 111
Pantera - Panther, Via S. Quirico
Selva - Forest, Piazzetta della Selva
Tartuca - Tortoise, Via T. Pendola 21/25
Torre - Tower, Via Salicotto 76
Valdimontone - Ram, Via di Valdimontone 6
There is a spectacular procession that precedes the race whichs attracts visitors from all over the world. The first race is on the 2nd of July. It is the day of local festivities celebrated in honor of Madonna of Provenzano. The second race is 16th August. The celebrations of the day are dedicated to Virgin Mary. The race field consists of ten horses which mean that only 10 of the 17 Contrade can participate in the race. The seven that does participate get to it the next time. The other three will be randomly chosen. The horses to run the race will be chosen by means of a draw. They will have six trials before the actual race. Prayers and offerings go along for the winning of each Contrada. These days there are bribing also. There is a spectacular pageant in medieval costumes just before the race. The loud echoes of explosives signal the onlookers the beginning of the race. Nine jockeys ride on the bare backs of their horses. The tenth horse stands behind them. The racers can use whips for their horse and worry other horses also. The winner is supposed to be that horse that crosses the finishing line with its head ornament in its place. And the loser is the one that finishes second and not last! The winner gets a beautiful banner in silk made especially for the particular year. The victory is often celebrated for months together. The losers would also have to bear the bullying by the winning team too.
The preparations for the next race starts immediately after the races are over. And as it is known, the preparations stretch out for well about a year itself! Which Contrada do you belong to? Have you been to the race before? If not, check out this time…
Have you ever thought - do we live to eat or eat to live?
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Questions and suggestions
about the Tuscan Life Newsletter can be sent to max@ultimateitaly.com