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We thoroughly enjoyed a delightful
meal at the restaurant La Parata (information on the
restaurant in included in the article below on the
town) in Bagno Vignoni, and for me, the highlight
was a delicious homemade Ricotta Cheesecake. Torta
di Ricotta is enjoyed all over Italy, and according
to the website (www.lidiasitaly.com) of chef, restaurateur,
and media personality Lidia Bastianich, "The
nature of this cheesecake is that it is dry and wet
at the same time… cakes made with ricotta cheese
are very typical of Italian desserts." Here,
I have tried to recreate a cake reminiscent of the
one served at La Parata. I hope you enjoy it. |
- 24 ounces of fresh ricotta cheese
- 5 large eggs
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- 1 teaspoon cinammon
- ½ teaspoon nutmeg
- finely grated zest of 1 lemon
- finely grated zest of 1 orange
- 1 tablespoon chopped candied orange peel
- 2/3 cup well chopped almonds
Drain the ricotta in a cheese cloth lined sieve to
remove excess moisture. Generously butter and lightly
flour a 10" spring form pan. Preheat the oven to 350
degrees.
Beat the ricotta
in an electric mixer until fluffy. Beat the eggs in
one at a time, then add all of the remaining ingredients
other than the candied peel and almonds. Be sure the
mixture is very well blended and retains its light
and fluffy texture. Remove the beaters, and fold in
the candied peel and almonds at the end.
Bake for 45 to 55
minutes, jiggling the pan to see if the cake is firm.
Let cool to room temperature. This is delicious served
with berries or summer fruits. Enjoy! |
Until
its defeat at the hands of the navy of Genoa in 1284,
Pisa was the supreme Tuscan military city, based on
its naval power. It had a large population and
Pisan merchants traveled the entire Mediterranean,
bringing a cosmopolitan sensibility to the powerful
seaport. Considering Pisa's geographical
position today, many people are surprised to learn
of her history as a sea power. Yet, an enemy
greater than Genoa truly sealed Pisa's naval
fate: the Arno began silting up and the cost
of dredging the port left the city weakened.
In this state, the Milanese seized the town in 1396,
and Pisa's history as a power effectively ceased.
The Pisani rebelled against their Florentine rulers
in 1494, but it was too late to recapture their former
glory. Under Florentine rule, the Medici
supported Pisa's university, and it is this institution
that helped to keep the town alive and vibrant in
the modern world.
The pool itself
is surrounded by the town walls, a metre and a half
tall. Ancient buildings, many designed by Bernardo
Rossellino to honor Pope Pio II, and the arcade where
Santa Caterina di Siena stopped on her journey here,
make up the rest of the medieval scenery. This place
seems truly of another world, and one must stop and
slowly drink it in to realize that it exists, almost
perfectly preserved, in the midst of the 21 st Century.
This little town
sits atop a hill above the River Orcia, 20 minutes
from Pienza, just a few more from Montalcino and Montepulciano,
and an easy 40 minutes drive from Siena. An ancient
system of thermal pools and waterworks, channels and
races, recently uncovered by archaeologists, sits
just outside the medieaval center, and there are several
plaques that explain the site and excavations to visitors.
Until the 1950's, this area, called the Parco dei
Mulini, still contained water-powered mills that were
important to the economic health of the town. Once
excavated, bits of history, much older than thought,
were discovered.
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We
visited the site in the early evening. No other visitors
were about, and as we dipped our hands into the warm
rushing water, it was possible to picture the extensive
waterworks that served the area long, long ago. There
is a stone lined culvert at the opposite end of the
town where one can submerge one's self or bathe one's
feet after a long hike.
The chalky waters of Bagno Vignoni are rich in sodium
chloride, calcium, iron, magnesium, sodium sulfates
and other minerals thought to have curative properties.
They are said to be particularly beneficial to the
bones and skin, as well as the joints and reproductive
system. Saint Catherine of Siena, Lorenzo dei Medici,
and Pope Pio II took these waters, and reported their
healing affects.
There is a large
hotel in town that offers its pool and spa services
to the public, and surprisingly, this tiny town is
also a terrific place to eat. The restaurant La Parata,
where we dined wonderfully, and the Osteria del Leone,
are both well known for their delicious local offerings.
At La Parata, we dined on the pasta specialty of
this area, pici, as tables full of local workers happily
devoured homemade salumni. I enjoyed the house prepared
breasola, the pici, and the wonderful torta di ricotta.
My husband chose a roasted rabbit dish that he loved.
The name of the restaurant derives from the Italian
verb "parare," meaning, "to cover." It is appropriate
because the roof of the current restaurant was, for
200 years, the covering of part of an ancient inn
that once stood on this spot. Chef/owner Giancarlo
Diodata changes his menu frequently to reflect the
seasons, and his personal, inventive take on traditional
dishes is delightful. Prices are moderate, and décor
is evocative of times gone by. We highly recommend
this charming little place.
Information:
Terme di Bagno Vignoni
53020 Bagno Vignoni, Province of Siena
(39) 0577 887 365
L'Osteria La Parata
Piazza del Moretto 40
(39) 0577 887 508 |
