Benvenuto!

In keeping with the carefree days of summer, this issue of the Tuscan Life Newsletter will cover a potpourri of topics designed to entertain lovers of all things Tuscan. We will visit Romantic Florence, answer some reader requests for information, and present a simple summer recipe. Take a break, sit back and relax, and enjoy our little window on Bella Toscana.

Contents

1. Recipe: The Perfect Summer Sandwich

2. Romantic Florence

3.Answers to Reader Requests; Recipes and More

Our Accommodations



We invite you to view our accommodations, and perhaps make plans of your own to
visit Bella Toscana, our beautiful corner of Italy.
www.florencevillas.com

RECIPE: Paninni con salumni e rughetta  

 

If you’re looking for an easy summer meal, using the finest products of the panoply of Tuscan Salumni, here is a wonderful sandwich recipe that we have been enjoying for the past year or two. We like this so much that it has become a staple for picnics and road trips. Don’t turn the oven on, and have a great meal!

  • Tuscan salami, prosciutto or other cold cuts (the best available)
  • Focaccia, ciabatta, schiaciatta or other crusty, flat (not round) loaf of bread
  • Best Tuscan extra virgin olive oil
  • Good quality aceto balsamico
  • Roasted red peppers (jarred are fine), cut into strips
  • Tuscan pecorino (pecorino fresca or medium aged; not hard)
  • Fresh arugula

      

Split the bread and brush the cut sides lightly with the olive oil. Sprinkle the balsamic vinegar lightly over the cut surfaces of the bread. Layer the ingredients, starting with the meat, then thin slices of the cheese. Top these with strips of the roasted peppers, and finish with a layer of arugula.

Place the top bread on and press down with your hand. If you want a warm paninni style sandwich, pour a little olive oil in a heavy frying pan or on a griddle, put in the sandwich and lay a foil covered brick atop the sandwich. Flip after a minute or two. A paninni maker isn't necessary! Enjoy with fresh fruit and fresh squeezed lemonade.

ROMANTIC FLORENCE  

Loving all things to do with travel in Tuscany, I often read a variety of Internet message boards that address that subject. This weekend, I read a request from a bride to be, asking for information on honeymooning in Florence. I was shocked to see two messages discouraging the couple from visiting Florence; the answering posters thought Florence wasn't romantic! I decided then and there that I had to address the subject. Florence is not only one of the greatest cities in the world, but it is also full of romance, and plenty of places that inspire lovers. My husband and I put our heads together and came up with this list of some of our favorite romantic places and experiences, alla Firenze .

The courtyard and cloisters of Santa Maria Novella. It may be hard to believe that a romantic time can be had so very close to the bustle and crowds of the Santa Maria Novella area, but trust us, it can be done quite easily. The Old Cemetery at this grand church is a quiet refuge in the heart of one of the city’s busiest quarters. The lovely plantings and paths are cool and sheltered, and a wall separates this garden court from the busy piazza outside. The Green Cloister is a wonder, and on a recent midday visit, we had it and the other cloisters entirerly to ourselves. Many visitors only see the church itself, and neglect this area where the striking frescoes of Paolo Uccello, created with green pigment from the nearby earth, rest in cool and lonely isolation.

Strolling the banks of the Arno at sunset and in moonlight. I doubt if anything could be more romantic. Many visitors have gloried in watching the sunset along the Arno, most famously from the Ponte Vecchio. We recently set out through the dark and echoing Piazzale D. Uffizzi for a late night stroll along the Arno. Emerging from the Piazzale, we headed to the east, meandering along the wide sidewalks down to the Ponte Alle Grazie, crossing the river there and watching the moon’s reflection in the water as it made its way across the sky. We walked westward until the Ponte Vecchio, recrossing the river there. At night, the bridge is nearly empty and the ancient shutters that hide the gold merchants’ offerings through the night evoke a real sense of another time. The sense of medieval days was with us as we slowly made our way back to Santa Croce. This was a wonderful romantic evening.

Cappucino on the roof terrace of the Uffizi. Another memorable romantic experience: we had just arrived back in Florence, jet lagged and longer for comfort. There were no lines at the door of the Uffizzi, and we decided to enter. After briefly visiting a few of our favorite paintings, we wandered out to the roof terrace, where, in glorious spring sunshine, we sipped cappucini and marvelled at the wondrous view. We highly recommend this activity. For us, no visit to the Uffizzi is now complete without cofffee on the terrace.

Giardino Boboli. The Boboli Gardens are popular with visitors to Florence, but they are a must for honeymooners. There are quiet lanes where towering trees shelter the shady paths, and glimpses of the hills above the city can be had through the greenery. Leave the most popular parts of the gardens to find quiet corners of your own. Afterwards, a pleasant spot for refreshment is the Kaffeehaus with its lovely Baroque trimmings and more wonderful views.

Santa Maria del Carmine and the Capella Brancacci. Wandering the streets of the Oltrarno is a delightful way to spend time away from the tourist hordes. And a visit to the Capella Brancacci, where visits are timed and only a few guests are allowed in at any one time, is a way to experience one of Florence’s greatest art treasures in peace and isolation. The Brancacci’s frescoes were begun by Masolino in 1425 and finished a half century later by Filippino Lippi. They are must sees, and their beauty should be an inspiration to lovers of great art.

Piazza Santo Spirito and Osteria Santo Spirito. We’ve written about Osteria Santo Spirito before, but I think it is worthwhile to mention it here, on our list of romantic places in Florence. Dinner at this restaurant is lovely in weather not suitable for outdoor eating, with the dark walls, arty atmosphere, and intimate friendliness. Eating outdoors in Piazza Santo Spirito is even better. The moon, the stars, the façade of Santo Spirito, and delicious, innovative food: what more could one ask for? There is a quaint, seductive atmosphere to the restaurant and a bohemian spirit is alive in the Santo Spirito quarter. If you plan to visit Osteria Santo Spirito, do make a reservation. The place is small and outdoor tables go quickly on pleasant evenings.

Osteria Santo Spirito
Piazza Santo Spirito, 16r
055 238 2383

 

The Dominican Convent of San Marco. This quiet place and its lovely cloistered courtyard transport visitors to an era that can only be imagined. Fra Angelico, under commision to Cosimo il Vecchio, lived and painted here from 1436 to 1444. His serene and pious depictions decorate the monks’ cells and some of the corridors and more public spaces of the convent. We sat in the courtyard and listened to the birds sing for nearly half an hour. If you’re looking for serenity and inspiration, there is no better place than this, the most famous repository of the works of Fra Angelico, patron saint of artists.

And the rest: I find I could go on and on. My own honeymoon was partially spent in Firenze, and I still find it to be among the most romantic of cities. Perhaps I will write more on this subject soon, but for now, just let me mention a few more favorite spots that I associate with Florence and romance.

A café stop on Piazza Signoria or Piazza Republica

The winding road up to Fiesole, and exploring the old Roman amphitheater and the Villa San Michele. Lunch or drinks on the terrace of the Villa San Michele are wonderful.

A walk or ride up to San Miniato Al Monte, and an exploration of the area. This is ideally followed by savoring the view from Piazzelle Michelangelo, and a leisurely walk back down into the city.

Among restaurants for special romantic meals, we recommend the lovely and intimate wine bar/restaurant Enoteca Antinori, and the elegant Pinchiorri.

Jewelry shopping is always an activity that brings thoughts of romance, and the gold shops of Florence offer an astounding array lovely items. We like the shops on the Ponte Vecchio as well as the less romantic, but more affordable COI.


Reader Requests
       We have received several wonderful letters from readers asking for recipes and information about Tuscany. We hope to answer these regularly. We begin this new feature with a letter from a reader in Australia who wrote:

Dear Signore

I love your site and was wondering if you could help me

I am looking for information on Cenci, the pastry.

But more importantly the history and origins of it. I can find loads of recipes but cannot find much information

on its history

Grazie mille

Serena ( in Australia)

Well, like Serena, we went searching for the history and origins of Cenci, and had just as much trouble finding anything solid about this delicious and popular pastry. Cenci are best known as a Carnival pastry, and a visit to our past newsletter section ( www.florencevillas.com ) will uncover a recipe we published last year.

I have not been able to discover anything specific about the history of the cookie, but it does seem that they are associated with the earliest celebrations of Carnival and other pre-Lenten feasting. My assumption is that the richness of the fried dough may have been associated with these festivities because of the more austere dishes that would have been eaten during the period of fasting.

Even the origins of the name of Cenci are disputed. A literal translation is "rags" but they are also known as chiacchere (gossips), lettuce leaves (lattughe) and ribbons (nastrini). Some folks refer to Cenci as Lovers' Knots. Some also say that the name cenci, or rags, is used because the original pastries were made from bit and pieces of leftover dough.

Serena, we hope that helps!

   
Our Accommodations


We invite you to view our accommodations, and perhaps make plans of your own to
visit Bella Toscana, our beautiful corner of Italy.
www.florencevillas.com

 

You can reach us at the newsletter, with your comments or questions, at Tuscanlifeedit@verizon.net
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