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If you’re looking for an easy
summer meal, using the finest products of the panoply
of Tuscan Salumni, here is a wonderful sandwich recipe
that we have been enjoying for the past year or two.
We like this so much that it has become a staple for
picnics and road trips. Don’t turn the oven
on, and have a great meal!
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Tuscan salami, prosciutto or
other cold cuts (the best available)
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Focaccia, ciabatta, schiaciatta
or other crusty, flat (not round) loaf of bread
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Best Tuscan extra virgin olive
oil
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Good quality aceto balsamico
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Roasted red peppers (jarred
are fine), cut into strips
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Tuscan pecorino (pecorino fresca
or medium aged; not hard)
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Fresh arugula
Split the bread and brush the cut
sides lightly with the olive oil. Sprinkle the balsamic
vinegar lightly over the cut surfaces of the bread.
Layer the ingredients, starting with the meat, then
thin slices of the cheese. Top these with strips of
the roasted peppers, and finish with a layer of arugula.
Place the top bread on and press
down with your hand. If you want a warm paninni
style sandwich, pour a little olive oil in a
heavy frying pan or on a griddle, put in the sandwich
and lay a foil covered brick atop the sandwich. Flip
after a minute or two. A paninni maker isn't necessary!
Enjoy with fresh fruit and fresh squeezed lemonade.
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Loving all things to do with travel in Tuscany, I
often read a variety of Internet message boards that
address that subject. This weekend, I read a request
from a bride to be, asking for information on honeymooning
in Florence. I was shocked to see two messages discouraging
the couple from visiting Florence; the answering posters
thought Florence wasn't romantic! I decided then and
there that I had to address the subject. Florence
is not only one of the greatest cities in the world,
but it is also full of romance, and plenty of places
that inspire lovers. My husband and I put our heads
together and came up with this list of some of our
favorite romantic places and experiences, alla
Firenze .
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The courtyard
and cloisters of Santa Maria Novella. It
may be hard to believe that a romantic time can be
had so very close to the bustle and crowds of the
Santa Maria Novella area, but trust us, it can be
done quite easily. The Old Cemetery at this grand
church is a quiet refuge in the heart of one of the
city’s busiest quarters. The lovely plantings
and paths are cool and sheltered, and a wall separates
this garden court from the busy piazza outside. The
Green Cloister is a wonder, and on a recent midday
visit, we had it and the other cloisters entirerly
to ourselves. Many visitors only see the church itself,
and neglect this area where the striking frescoes
of Paolo Uccello, created with green pigment from
the nearby earth, rest in cool and lonely isolation.
Strolling
the banks of the Arno at sunset and in moonlight.
I doubt if anything could be more romantic. Many visitors
have gloried in watching the sunset along the Arno,
most famously from the Ponte Vecchio. We recently
set out through the dark and echoing Piazzale D. Uffizzi
for a late night stroll along the Arno. Emerging from
the Piazzale, we headed to the east, meandering along
the wide sidewalks down to the Ponte Alle Grazie,
crossing the river there and watching the moon’s
reflection in the water as it made its way across
the sky. We walked westward until the Ponte Vecchio,
recrossing the river there. At night, the bridge is
nearly empty and the ancient shutters that hide the
gold merchants’ offerings through the night
evoke a real sense of another time. The sense of medieval
days was with us as we slowly made our way back to
Santa Croce. This was a wonderful romantic evening.
Cappucino on the roof terrace
of the Uffizi. Another memorable romantic
experience: we had just arrived back in Florence,
jet lagged and longer for comfort. There were no lines
at the door of the Uffizzi, and we decided to enter.
After briefly visiting a few of our favorite paintings,
we wandered out to the roof terrace, where, in glorious
spring sunshine, we sipped cappucini and marvelled
at the wondrous view. We highly recommend this activity.
For us, no visit to the Uffizzi is now complete without
cofffee on the terrace.
Giardino Boboli. The
Boboli Gardens are popular with visitors to Florence,
but they are a must for honeymooners. There are quiet
lanes where towering trees shelter the shady paths,
and glimpses of the hills above the city can be had
through the greenery. Leave the most popular parts
of the gardens to find quiet corners of your own.
Afterwards, a pleasant spot for refreshment is the
Kaffeehaus with its lovely Baroque
trimmings and more wonderful views.
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Santa
Maria del Carmine and the Capella Brancacci. Wandering
the streets of the Oltrarno is a delightful way to
spend time away from the tourist hordes. And a visit
to the Capella Brancacci, where visits are timed and
only a few guests are allowed in at any one time,
is a way to experience one of Florence’s greatest
art treasures in peace and isolation. The Brancacci’s
frescoes were begun by Masolino in 1425 and finished
a half century later by Filippino Lippi. They are
must sees, and their beauty should be an inspiration
to lovers of great art.
Piazza Santo Spirito and
Osteria Santo Spirito. We’ve written
about Osteria Santo Spirito before, but I think it
is worthwhile to mention it here, on our list of romantic
places in Florence. Dinner at this restaurant is lovely
in weather not suitable for outdoor eating, with the
dark walls, arty atmosphere, and intimate friendliness.
Eating outdoors in Piazza Santo Spirito is even better.
The moon, the stars, the façade of Santo Spirito,
and delicious, innovative food: what more could one
ask for? There is a quaint, seductive atmosphere to
the restaurant and a bohemian spirit is alive in the
Santo Spirito quarter. If you plan to visit Osteria
Santo Spirito, do make a reservation. The place is
small and outdoor tables go quickly on pleasant evenings.
Osteria Santo Spirito
Piazza Santo Spirito, 16r
055 238 2383
The Dominican Convent of
San Marco. This quiet place and its lovely
cloistered courtyard transport visitors to an era
that can only be imagined. Fra Angelico, under commision
to Cosimo il Vecchio, lived and painted here from
1436 to 1444. His serene and pious depictions decorate
the monks’ cells and some of the corridors and
more public spaces of the convent. We sat in the courtyard
and listened to the birds sing for nearly half an
hour. If you’re looking for serenity and inspiration,
there is no better place than this, the most famous
repository of the works of Fra Angelico, patron saint
of artists.
And the rest: I
find I could go on and on. My own honeymoon was partially
spent in Firenze, and I still find it to be among
the most romantic of cities. Perhaps I will write
more on this subject soon, but for now, just let me
mention a few more favorite spots that I associate
with Florence and romance.
A café stop on Piazza Signoria
or Piazza Republica
The winding road up to Fiesole, and
exploring the old Roman amphitheater and the Villa
San Michele. Lunch or drinks on the terrace of the
Villa San Michele are wonderful.
A walk or ride up to San Miniato
Al Monte, and an exploration of the area. This is
ideally followed by savoring the view from Piazzelle
Michelangelo, and a leisurely walk back down into
the city.
Among restaurants for special romantic
meals, we recommend the lovely and intimate wine bar/restaurant
Enoteca Antinori, and the elegant Pinchiorri.
Jewelry shopping is always an activity
that brings thoughts of romance, and the gold shops
of Florence offer an astounding array lovely items.
We like the shops on the Ponte Vecchio as well as
the less romantic, but more affordable COI.
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| We
have received several wonderful letters from readers
asking for recipes and information about Tuscany. We
hope to answer these regularly. We begin this new feature
with a letter from a reader in Australia who wrote:
Dear Signore
I love your site and was wondering if you could
help me
I am looking for information on Cenci, the pastry.
But more importantly the history and origins
of it. I can find loads of recipes but cannot find
much information
on its history
Grazie mille
Serena ( in Australia)
Well, like Serena, we went searching for the history
and origins of Cenci, and had just as much trouble
finding anything solid about this delicious and popular
pastry. Cenci are best known as a Carnival pastry,
and a visit to our past newsletter section ( www.florencevillas.com
) will uncover a recipe we published last year.
I have not been able to discover anything specific
about the history of the cookie, but it does seem
that they are associated with the earliest celebrations
of Carnival and other pre-Lenten feasting. My assumption
is that the richness of the fried dough may have been
associated with these festivities because of the more
austere dishes that would have been eaten during the
period of fasting.
Even the origins of the name of Cenci are disputed.
A literal translation is "rags" but they are also
known as chiacchere (gossips), lettuce leaves (lattughe)
and ribbons (nastrini). Some folks refer to Cenci
as Lovers' Knots. Some also say that the name cenci,
or rags, is used because the original pastries
were made from bit and pieces of leftover dough.
Serena, we hope that helps! |