This is another of our very favorite recipes, and since our Reader Request for this issue deals with the production of prosciutto, we thought we would include a recipe that utilizes one of Tuscany's greatest products.  This is simple and delicious; it makes a wonderful first course.  Buon appetito!

One bunch of fresh asparagus, woody stalks removed

• 1/4 cup Tuscan Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 2 medium cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• Juice of one half lemon
• Salt
• Freshly ground pepper
• 1/4 pound Tuscan prosciutto, sliced thin
  

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Lightly coat a large, heavy cookie sheet or jelly roll pan with olive oil.  Spread the asparagus across the cookie sheet, and liberally sprinkle with the garlic, lemon juice, salt and pepper and the rest of the olive oil.  Roast for 10 or 15 minutes, until just browning, and shake the pan once or twice to be sure the stalks are even cooked and coated. Cool and place on paper towels to drain the excess oil. 

Slice each prosciutto slice once, vertically, into two even halves.  When the asparagus is cooled and drained, wrap a prosciutto slice around each stalk.  You can use toothpicks to secure them, if necessary, or just arrange artfully on the plate.  These are perfect finger food, or wonderful with crusty bread.  This recipe is easy to expand for a crowd. 

Some time ago, we wrote briefly about this lovely town in our Val d'Orcia newsletter (see Past Newsletters at www.florencevillas.com).  At the time, we spoke about the Collegiata, and the popular Festival di Barbarossa.  This time, we take you to a few of our favorite places in San Quirico. 

Horti Leonini:  Many visitors are drawn to San Quirico to explore this lovely garden.  It begins in an orderly, typically Italianate fashion just off the main piazza, but winds upward and over a hill to take in a variety of landscapes and vistas.  One could easily wander for an hour or more among the avenues, walks and paths of the Horti Leonini.  This Renaissance garden was built in 1580, and was originally intended to be a place of rest and refreshment for weary travelers along the Via Francigena, the pilgrim route from France to Rome. There are roses and box-hedge walks, and oaks provide shade as the garden meanders into its less formal nooks.  We loved walking here, and thought it the prettiest garden in this part of Italy. 

Shopping in San Quirico:  Although a small farming town, we are always happy with the wonderful selection of terrific shops in San Quirico.  Among our favorites are two wonderful stores that are a part of the Dedalo SNC group.  We must have gone to La Sartoria three times during a recent visit to San Quirico. This terrific linen store also includes a number of other household items, and plenty of ceramics.  But it was the woven items, tablecloths, placemats, yard good, napkins, kitchen towels and aprons that enchanted us.  We highly recommend a visit to La Sartoria and her sister emporium, La Creta, a studio of gorgeous handmade ceramics.  La Sartoria is off the via Dante Alighieri  at Piazza Marconi 2, and La Creta is located in via Dante Alighieri n. 20/a.

We also found another small store that delighted us.  This tiny shop was called Sbiribizzi, and it was packed full of the most wonderful soaps, candles, profumeria items and other delightful little gifts and notions.  Seldom have we seen so many unusual and charming items in such a small space.  We came home with bars of clear soap that featured a dog and tiny bone set inside them. These were a huge hit as gifts.  Sbiribizzi is located on via Dante Alighieri at numero 70A. 

Giardino Boboli. The Boboli Gardens are popular with visitors to Florence, but they are a must for honeymooners. There are quiet lanes where towering trees shelter the shady paths, and glimpses of the hills above the city can be had through the greenery. Leave the most popular parts of the gardens to find quiet corners of your own. Afterwards, a pleasant spot for refreshment is the Kaffeehaus with its lovely Baroque trimmings and more wonderful views.

A great restaurant: Osteria/Vineria Il Tinaio, at the very top of via Dante Alighieri is a spot that shouldn't be missed.  We were having one of those evenings when making up our minds about where to eat just wasn't easy.  Of course, there are few places outside of Italy where a town as small as San Quirico can offer a variety of excellent dining options.  What finally made up our minds was the hunger and weariness of one of our party who just couldn't wait until the other restaurants in town opened for dinner.  We choose Il Tinaio simply because it opened first! 

Although it is the height of summer here, one of our readers from Australia, who wrote last year to ask about prosciutto making, may be ready once again to think about this process now that it is winter there.  Here is the letter, edited for brevity and anonymity:

Hello, ... I am seeking some methods in the general making of Prosciutto....I tried one leg by rubbing sea salt into it with ground cumin (Portuguese style),  then I proceeded to cure the leg in rock salt for 30 days,  then I smoked it for approximately one day and now it (has) been left to hang in a cool place.  As much information you could provide without you going out of your way too much would be greatly appreciated,  because I'm just about to buy ten legs of pork. Should I be using Black Footed Pig?


Thank you for your time. A Reader.
Gippsland Victoria Australia.

Well, this one stumped me.  I had never imagined that anyone reading our newsletter would ask for instructions on the making of prosciutto.  I am not sure what type of pig should be used, but I have been doing research on the matter, and here are some of the things I've come up with.  You also might want to view our Past Newsletter section (www.florencevillas.com) for our newsletter on Tuscan Prosciutto. 

It seems that no one recommends making your own prosciutto!  However, I am a great supporter of those who wish to revive the home production of any number of foods, and I can share with you some of the major points I've gathered. 

Most experts agree that a pig should be about 4 months old when it is butchered for prosciutto making. The pork leg should be cleaned and trimmed, then left to rest, lying flat in a cool place for 24 hours.  Another method suggests letting the meat hang in a cool place for 5 days before salting. 

Next comes the initial salting: the leg should be covered in salt and left, lying flat on one side, for 4 days.  Then turn it, and leave it lying flat on the other side for 4 days.  Just to confuse matters, I have also read that the meat can be covered with the initial salting and left to hang for a week in a cool dry place. 

How cool should it be?  Most commercial processors use refrigeration, and I would then think that pretty darn cool is about right.  I apologize for being flippant, but I haven't been able to get information on exact temperatures.  It seems that methods certainly vary from maker to maker.

  After seven days, this initial coating of sea salt is washed off, and before new salt replaces it, the ham is then hung for two weeks in a cool, dry and well ventilated space.  The air circulation at this point is said to be crucial.   It is only when the meat is dry that it the process is complete.  Depending on humidity factors, this is said to take between 2 and 18 months.  In Parma, after the 4th month, the meat is wrapped in a coating of lard.  There, the hams are moved underground and left to age for another 6 months. 

It is said that all one needs to create prosciutto is pork, salt, air and plenty of time. The traditional makers do not use spices, additives or chemicals.

  Prosciutto di Toscano is a bit different from prosciutto di Parma in that more salt is used in the curing.  This leaves the cured meat drier and redder than other varieties of prosciutto.  Prosciutto di Parma is made with a minimal amount of salt and the result is sweeter than the Tuscan product. 

I can't imagine doing this myself, but I do hope it has been helpful.  If not, come to Tuscany and enjoy our prosciutto while reveling in the glory of being here!