La Cucina della Versilia

The cucina of the Tuscan Coast on which Viareggio is situated is quite different from that of other parts of our province. Cacciucco is, along with fish dishes in the style of Livorno, or alla Livornese , one of the area's most famous dishes. Cacciucco is a fish stew that nearly every town along the Tuscan coast has a special version of. In Viareggio, tradition says that Cacciucco is best when a stone is boiled with the other ingredients! Tiglia alla Livornese (Red Mullet in the style of Livorno) is a dish popular throughout Tuscany, but of course is best enjoyed near the coast.

Viareggio has a famous dish of its own:

Spaghetti alla Viareggiana!

4 dozen baby clams
4 cloves garlic, chopped
Good extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, sliced thin
1 1/2 cups dry white wine
1 28 ounce can crushed tomatoes in puree (or an equivalent amount of skinned, seeded and chopped fresh tomatoes)
Crushed dry red pepper flakes to taste
1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
Salt and pepper to taste
1 1/2 pounds spaghetti

In a large heavy kettle or Dutch oven, place the well-cleaned clams in about a quarter cup or more of olive oil, and sprinkle with 2 cloves of the chopped garlic. Put a tight-fitting lid over the clams, and cook on medium heat until all the clams have opened, checking them fairly frequently in order to not overcook them. Discard any unopened clams, and remove the rest from their shells. Set these aside, and carefully strain all liquids from the pan to remove any grit, sand, overcooked garlic, etc. Reserve these juices.

In another large heavy pan, lightly brown the sliced onion and the rest of the garlic in another 1/4 cup or so of olive oil. Add the wine, tomatoes, pepper flakes, parsley and reserved liquid from clams. Taste for salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat for 20 to 30 minutes, then add the clams and toss with spaghetti cooked al dente.

This delicious dish will have you thinking about a visit to the coast of Tuscany. Viareggio and other coastal resorts are an easy day trip from our villas near Lucca. You can view our accommodations at:

www.florencevillas.com

Carnevale di Viareggio

The town of Viareggio, situated along the northern reaches of the Tuscan coast, just east of Lucca, began to gain fame as a resort in the 1860s. A group of wealthy young men from the town came up with the idea of a special Carnevale celebration in 1873. They built and decorated floats and then held a parade along the town's main streets. Several citizens of Viareggio used this parade as an opportunity to protest excessive taxation. Not willing to be identified by the authorities, the protesters wore masks, thus inaugurating the Carnevale tradition of masked revelers. This original event was celebrated on Shrove Tuesday and the previous Sunday, and it gradually grew into the elaborate celebration that it is today.

By the turn of the century, the popularity of both the town and its Carnevale had grown considerably. The tradition of holding a parade, featuring huge and fantastical floats truly flourished at about this time; the floats were originally built by Viareggio's ship builders. These men, skilled in carpentry and iron work, translated their skills into the construction of these fabulous parade floats. Harkening back to the first masked protesters, the floats were and often are, used as a vehicle to lampoon popular figures of the day.

The event grew, attracting early tourists in growing numbers, until the onset of World War I. Harder times, a lack of resources, men, and a seriously diminished tourist economy nearly brought Viareggio's Carnevale to an end, but the event was popular enough to survive the difficulties and flourished again after the war.

1921 was a significant year in the history of Viareggio's Carnevale. The Grand Parade marched along The Mall, the name used for the towns two beautiful avenues that parallel the sea front, and Carnevale's official song, La Coppa di Champagne, or The Glass of Champagne, was adopted.

1925 brought advances in the use of Papier Mache to the artisans of Viareggio; the floats, now able to utilize this light but strong material, became more elaborate. The organizers of the parades also began to use Papier Mache to construct large, fantastical masks that were easy for their wearers to march under. The famous character Pierrot became the first mask with animated features in 1927. The official mask of Viareggio's Carnevale is the Burrlamacco, whose name, I am told, translates to "Captain Scary!"

The Carnevale masks and floats of Viareggio quickly became an art form and hugely popular cultural icons displayed in museums and well-loved by the people of the town. Today's floats are planned and worked on for the entire year before each Carnevale.

Carnevale fell on hard times again at the onset of World War II, and yet again in 1960 when the hangar where the huge floats and masks were built and stored was destroyed by fire. But the advent of the electronic age was a great boon to the event: Italian television began to televise the parades as early as 1954.

Viareggio's Carnevale is as popular today as ever and attracts tourists and dignitaries from throughout Italy and, indeed, the world. The town's various rioni, or quarters, celebrate Carnivale with masked balls and tournaments.

In 2000, Viareggio opened a tourist attraction allowing visits to the various Carnivale hangars, in effect creating a living museum where Carnevale can be enjoyed the year round. The area also features a Papier Mache school and various performances, as well as museum depicting the history of Carnevale di Viareggio.

Viareggio now celebrates Carnevale with 5 Great Parades during the five weekends before Lent. As these dates change each year, it is wise to check with the local tourist authorities for the exact parade dates. Viareggio's Tourist Office can be reached by email at

aptversillia@caen.it

The Town of Viareggio

The town of Viareggio takes its name from an ancient tower that stood along the Via Reggia , protecting this little Luccehsi stronghold from its Pisan, Florentine and Genoan enemies until the 19th century. The land of the area was a swamp, and it wasn't until Lucca's beloved Duchess Maria Luisa drained the swamps that the town began to grow. The Duchess built shipyards and laid out Viareggio's charming grid of street plans. As we said above, the town began to be popular as a seaside resort shortly after these improvements were made in the mid-19th century.

After a devastating fire in 1917, Viareggio's seaside promenade was rebuilt by the architect Galileo Chini , whose popular Liberty Style was introduced in the International Exposition of the Decorative Arts in Torino in 1902. Chini also designed sets for New York's Metropolitan Opera and a throne room for the King of Siam!

Working with Alfredo Belluomini , Chini redesigned the entire Passeggiata , or seaside promenade of Viareggio. Their most famous buildings include the Gran Caffe Margherita , colorful and twin-towered; many hotels; and the Bagna Balena , which has been converted to a cinema. The Gran Caffe Margherita serves a symbol for the town, which has a quaint Belle Époque charm.

The Passeggiata, along with the Hangar Carnivale, is the center of tourism in Viareggio. The charming harbor and the mini-canal system make for delightful sight seeing. Many visitors also enjoy the popular flea market which is held in the Piazza Manzoni on the last Saturday and Sunday of each month. The town features many fine restaurants and shops with seaside ambiance.

Torre del Lago

Torre del Lago in another worthwhile destination for those visiting Viareggio. It is situated about 6km south of Viareggio, along the charmingly wooded Via del Tigli . The villa of Puccini, in which he wrote his beloved opera Tosca, has now become the Museo Pucciniano , situated on the banks of Lago Massaciuccoli. Puccini and his wife are buried on the grounds, at the villa's chapel. Torre del Lago holds an opera festival each August where Puccini's works are presented in an outdoor theater

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