Contents
1. A Favorite Recipe: Risotto
Funghi
2. Skiing in Tuscany
3. Abetone
4. Low Cost European Airlines:
Carriers into Pisa
Risotto Funghi
What happens in winter in Tuscany? For one thing,
the crowds are smaller, and the museums, churches,
and restaurants become wonderful havens from the
weather. The weather in Tuscany in winter is not
extreme, and winter quickly becomes spring. Nevertheless,
if you think that shopping, and visiting churches
and museums are the highlights of a winter holiday
in Tuscany, we would like to tell you about the
wonderful outdoor life available here to winter
sport's enthusiasts. Most of us don't think of Tuscany
as a ski destination, but there are two great ski
resorts quite near to Firenze, Pistoia, and Lucca.
After skiing, many of us have enjoyed the hearty
Risotto Funghi served at Fagiolino
, a restaurant in the village of Cutigliano,
in the mountains above Pistoia. Here is our version
for you to try at home:
Risotto Funghi, or Mushroom Risotto
- 7 cups good quality chicken broth
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 small onions, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced (we suggest
crimini, but a mix of button and wild will make
a good substitute)
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped
- 2 tablespoons fresh Italian parsley, chopped
- 2 tablespoons butter
- Salt and pepper
- 1-ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rehydrated
according to package, then drained and roughly
chopped
- 2 cups Arborio rice
- 1/2 cup dry white wine
- 1/2 cup fresh Parmesan cheese, grated
- Fresh Italian parsley, for garnish
Heat the chicken broth in a medium saucepan and
keep warm over low heat. Cook the sliced mushrooms,
1 onion and 1 minced garlic clove in a tablespoon
of olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced mushrooms,
butter and herbs and season with salt and pepper.
Add the rehydrated porcini mushrooms and 1/2 cup
of the broth and sauté for a just a few minutes,
then set this mixture aside.
Sauté the other onion and garlic clove in
another tablespoon or two of the olive oil until
just translucent. Add the rice and stir quickly
until it is well-coated. This takes about 1 minute
and assures that the starchy coating of the rice
is cooked and keeps it from becoming sticky or gluey.
This is an essential step. Then stir in wine and
cook until it is nearly all evaporated.
With a ladle, add 1 cup of the warm broth and cook,
stirring, until the rice has absorbed the liquid.
Add the remaining broth, 1 cup at a time. Continue
to cook and stir, allowing the rice to absorb each
addition of broth before adding more. The risotto
should be slightly firm and creamy; you are looking
for the same al dente feel to rice that we want
in cooking pasta. The goal is at achieve the proper
texture, and not necessarily use all the broth.
The rice cooking and stirring process should take
about 15 or 20 minutes.
Add the mushroom mixture and parmesan cheese, and
cook just until the cheese is melted.
This is nice served with a sprinkle of the chopped
parsley and a drizzle of best extra virgin olive
oil. This serves four to six and is well worth the
time and effort!
Skiing in Tuscany!
Although the ski season in Tuscany is relatively
short, just like winter in all but the most northerly
mountainous regions of Italy, we do have some exciting
slopes with good snow. The ski resort closest to
Firenze and several of our villas and apartments
is Abetone in the Pistoia
mountains, about an hour and a half drive from the
center of Firenze.
Abetone is the most important ski resort in central
Italy. It is known all over the world, and part
of its fame is due to the local heroes, the great
ski champions Zeno Colo ,
Celina Seghi and Vittorio
Chierroni , who enthusiastically sang
its praises throughout their stellar careers. The
ski facilities in Abetone have undergone many recent
improvements, and all of the slopes are now interconnected.
There are several lifts, and among the newest is
a telecabina or cable
car lift.
Additionally, Abetone has added quite a good deal
of snow making equipment, and recently advertised
over 100 snow making machines. This resort is the
top ski destination in the Apennines, with seventy
kilometers of downhill runs, including those at
Cutigliano ,
Doganaccia
and Pian di Novello, and
about fifty cross country ski runs. The slopes themselves
are situated between four well-linked valleys: Val
di Luce, Valle dello Scoltenna, Valle del Sestalone
and Valle di Lima.
Together, these valleys form some of the most gorgeous
scenery in Tuscany. The nearby ski resorts of Corno
ale Scale and Cimone
have joined forces with Abetone to
offer a special pass allowing holders to access
the slopes at all three resorts. This is known as
the Big Snow pass, and is available at each of the
resorts.
If you love to ski, we urge you to consider making
it a part of your Tuscan visit. Abetone is handy
to Lucca, and quite a beautiful drive from Pistoia,
Lucca, Prato or Firenze. In addition, a special
ski bus service connects Firenze to the mountains
during winter weekends, leaving Firenze at 7:10
and returning from Abetone at 19:15.
Abetone
Set high in the mountains above Pistoia, Abetone
is truly a beauty spot, but one that is different
from the other lovely cities of Tuscany; these hilltops
resemble an Alpine landscape more than an archetypal
Tuscan one. The State-protected forests of this
area are rich in firs, larches and pines, and the
town of Abetone was actually named for a giant fir
tree that grew in the forested hills.
The forest is crossed by paths that are the starting
point for a range of excursions from simple walking
and hiking jaunts to more adventurous mountaineering
trips. The area is active all year round as a focal
point for outdoor enthusiasts. The highest nearby
peaks, at nearly two thousand meters, are the Alpe
Tre Potenze.
I feel that the mountains of northern Tuscany are
some of the most breathtakingly beautiful scenery
that I've ever experienced. There is a certain wildness,
a sense of something quite different from our more
gentle rural lands, that reveals a layer of life
that the average tourist to Siena, Pisa, or Firenze
never experiences. I love these mountains, and urge
you to include them in a visit.
Le Piramidi dell'Abetone
While Abetone is known much more for its natural
beauty than the buildings or history of the town
itself, The Pyramids of Abetone are landmarks in
their own right. They mark the border of the former
Duchies of Tuscany and Modena, and they were erected
on the occasion of the opening of the road built
by Pietro Leopoldo, Grand Duke of Tuscany, between
his lands and Modena. This road was especially designed
to avoid the lands of Bologna, ruled by the Papal
State, Pietro Leopoldo's great enemies. The pyramids
are constructed of Tuscan stone with marble ornamentation,
and bear inscriptions praising Pietro Leopoldo.
Orto Botanico Forestale dell'Abetone
The Botanical Forest of Abetone is an Alpine arboretum
containing a variety of plants that once thrived
in the mountain climates of Italy but are now under
threat of extinction. The Forestale
was opened to the public in 1987.
The Botanical Gardens are extensive, and they are
largely dedicated to forest trees, featuring typical
vegetation of the Apennine forests and some imported
plants as well.
One small area is occupied by a sandstone and limestone
cliff garden, and there is a lovely small lake.
The trails through the forest follow a main path
that divides the Orto Botanico into three areas,
with trails that lead to the Sestaione
waterfall; to an area of sandstone
covered with rare mosses and lichen; and to the
main area that features the typical flora of the
Pistoiese Mountains and other nearby areas, including
the Alpe Appuane. Hiking through the Orto Botanico
Forestale dell'Abetone is quite a popular
and enjoyable activity for those who visit this
area in spring, summer and full.
Low Cost European Airlines:
Carriers into Pisa
For those of you who may be interested, we find
these new carriers to be an exciting opportunity
to fly into Pisa Airport from the United Kingdom
and other European countries, as well as an opportunity
for very inexpensive connections from the United
States and Canada. Here is a list of the European
low-cost carriers that fly into Pisa, the dominant
major airport in Tuscany:
Ryanair ( www.ryanair.com
) services Pisa with direct flights from London,
Brussels, and Frankfurt.
Air Lib Express ( www.airlibexpress.com
) flies into Pisa from Paris.
Hapag-Lloyd Express ( www.hlx.com
) services Pisa through its hub at Cologne-Bonn.
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